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    Rims, hubs and back-spacing.

    OK, quick question here:

    The 16" '95 Mustang GT rims that currently have my winter tires on them needed 1/4" spacers in order to clear the upper control arms on my '89 TC. Now, I've already arranged to purchase a set of 17" Cobra-R rims for the summer (after all the talk about having to run big spacers to get the '06 Mustang 18's to fit, I figured I wouldn't bother), will these require spacers as well?

    I guess I won't know 100% until I mock it up, but the issue I have with the current spacers is that the studs in the stock hubs aren't really long enough. SO, I had purchased some Morosso drag-racing studs to "fix" the problem, but my very good Mechanic buddy said that for winter, there's no point, and really, I see his issue. He also thinks the longer studs are a band-aide, which I begrudgingly agreed with. So, I have a set of 98 Crown Vic steelies that I assume WILL work (IE, have the correct back-spacing) with the winter tires so the spacers aren't necessary.

    So, my question is: How do I get away from needing spacers for the Cobra R's here? Hubs? Obviously there are many of you that are using non-stock rims on your cars, so what are my options?
    1989 Town Car Cartier: 3G Alt. Upgrade, Mark VIII Electric Fan, Police Interceptor Suspension, 40-series Flows, loaded. HO+ Conversion: E7 heads, Cobra 1.7RR's, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, FMS "E" Camshaft, 4-hole 19lb/hr injectors, A9P ECM, 76mm C&L MAF, BBK CAI. 338,000Km, stock bottom-end.

    #2
    I have 1.25" spacers on the front and 1" on the rear of mine to counter for the difference in offset for the Fox wheels I have. They come with their own lug studs on the spacer, so there isnt any need for longer wheel studs. Not much has the same offset as a Panther wheel so you might be stuck using a spacer to make it work right.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

    Comment


      #3
      I run 1.25" spacers "adapters" all around. Reason being is because the bullitts I have now are 5.72" backspace. So that 1.25" will bring me back to 4.5" which I think is the stock panther backspacing. Either that or its 4" but it looks good regardless.

      What you need are called wheel adapters. Its a chunk of aluminum that bolts to your hubs like a wheel but then has its own studs to mount your wheel on. You can also get them with different bolt patterns to go from 5x4.5 to 5x5 ect....

      2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
      My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Mercmarquis
        I run 1.25" spacers "adapters" all around. Reason being is because the bullitts I have now are 5.72" backspace. So that 1.25" will bring me back to 4.5" which I think is the stock panther backspacing. Either that or its 4" but it looks good regardless.

        What you need are called wheel adapters. Its a chunk of aluminum that bolts to your hubs like a wheel but then has its own studs to mount your wheel on. You can also get them with different bolt patterns to go from 5x4.5 to 5x5 ect....
        I know what you are talking about in that regard, but is there another way? I would prefer NOT to use those if at all possible..........
        1989 Town Car Cartier: 3G Alt. Upgrade, Mark VIII Electric Fan, Police Interceptor Suspension, 40-series Flows, loaded. HO+ Conversion: E7 heads, Cobra 1.7RR's, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, FMS "E" Camshaft, 4-hole 19lb/hr injectors, A9P ECM, 76mm C&L MAF, BBK CAI. 338,000Km, stock bottom-end.

        Comment


          #5
          I know what you mean mang. If it makes you feel better I havent had a problem with em yet, I also feel they are a much better alternative to the regular spacers you were talking about before.

          You can use hubcentric spacers which are much better but the same concept as the regular adapter. But you'll pay a bit of coin for those.

          Unless you swapped out your rear axle and front suspension to the 03+ panthers I dont know. IIRC the 03+ cars are either 5.72" or 6.25 or something. Thats why they have the pancake steelies.

          2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
          My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Mercmarquis
            I know what you mean mang. If it makes you feel better I havent had a problem with em yet, I also feel they are a much better alternative to the regular spacers you were talking about before.

            You can use hubcentric spacers which are much better but the same concept as the regular adapter. But you'll pay a bit of coin for those.

            Unless you swapped out your rear axle and front suspension to the 03+ panthers I dont know. IIRC the 03+ cars are either 5.72" or 6.25 or something. Thats why they have the pancake steelies.

            Hmmmmmmm...........

            So, do you know what the stock back-spacing is then? I have Mustang rims, which I think are 5.5" if I remember correctly................I have 1/4" adapters on there right now, which don't allow for adequate stud engagement, which is why I ordered in the 98 CV rims to put the tires on. I don't know if the local autoparts store can get the adapters or not, if I WERE to go that route, I know the hub-centric ones would be pretty much the only choice.
            1989 Town Car Cartier: 3G Alt. Upgrade, Mark VIII Electric Fan, Police Interceptor Suspension, 40-series Flows, loaded. HO+ Conversion: E7 heads, Cobra 1.7RR's, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, FMS "E" Camshaft, 4-hole 19lb/hr injectors, A9P ECM, 76mm C&L MAF, BBK CAI. 338,000Km, stock bottom-end.

            Comment


              #7
              Your best bet for spacers is to get them off ebay, easiest and cheapest. Search for Hubcentric ones. Also Eibach sells the hubcentric ones at summit racing. But hey are like $225 just for 2 spacers.

              Stock backspacing is 4.25" listed in the stickies.

              2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
              My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Mercmarquis
                Your best bet for spacers is to get them off ebay, easiest and cheapest. Search for Hubcentric ones. Also Eibach sells the hubcentric ones at summit racing. But hey are like $225 just for 2 spacers.

                Stock backspacing is 4.25" listed in the stickies.
                OK, so what is the proper spacer then to make the wheels the EXACT same as what is on there stock, back-spacing-wise? a 1" spacer? I wrote down the Eibach part number for the 1" hub-centric spacers, they look to be of good quality. I get parts for a severe discount at the local autoparts store, do computer work for the owner, and I THINK he can get Eibach products. I'm thinking the four spacers are going to cost me less than the four CV rims I ordered, and I'll be able to keep my pretty pony wheels But I want to be 100% sure I'm re-creating the exact same track for the car, so having the right spacers is paramount...... I'm a touch anal about stuff like that. I don't mind the idea of the spacers if they are made by a performance suspension company like Eibach.
                1989 Town Car Cartier: 3G Alt. Upgrade, Mark VIII Electric Fan, Police Interceptor Suspension, 40-series Flows, loaded. HO+ Conversion: E7 heads, Cobra 1.7RR's, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, FMS "E" Camshaft, 4-hole 19lb/hr injectors, A9P ECM, 76mm C&L MAF, BBK CAI. 338,000Km, stock bottom-end.

                Comment


                  #9
                  16" mustang GT wheels?


                  Closest I could find. Its 5.72" so lets say 5 3/4 to get back to 4.25" you'll need a 1.5" spacer. Its the same as my bullitts...I got away with 1.25" spacers with plenty of room. You could also get those cobra r's since they would have the same backspace.

                  2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
                  My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Mercmarquis
                    16" mustang GT wheels?


                    Closest I could find. Its 5.72" so lets say 5 3/4 to get back to 4.25" you'll need a 1.5" spacer. Its the same as my bullitts...I got away with 1.25" spacers with plenty of room. You could also get those cobra r's since they would have the same backspace.
                    I am pretty sure the stock 16" Mustang wheels are 7" wide and 5.5" back-spacing from the quick searches I did. Now, our stock rims are what, 6" on 4.25"? So given that, to get me back to the same wheel centreline, would it not require a 1" spacer then?
                    1989 Town Car Cartier: 3G Alt. Upgrade, Mark VIII Electric Fan, Police Interceptor Suspension, 40-series Flows, loaded. HO+ Conversion: E7 heads, Cobra 1.7RR's, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, FMS "E" Camshaft, 4-hole 19lb/hr injectors, A9P ECM, 76mm C&L MAF, BBK CAI. 338,000Km, stock bottom-end.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Kinda...Backspace is the measure between the back of the wheel mounting flange and the edge of the rim. To keep the same backspace you'll need the 1.5" spacers.

                      That doesnt change when going to a wider rim...

                      Your way is just a rule of thumb so you dont end up with your wheels sticking out past your fenders all redneck style. We are worried about having enough clearence around your control arms. We dont have to worry about the wheels pokin out of the fender.

                      So if you went with the 1" ones you might run into clearence issues with your control arm cause the wheel wont be far enough away. But I think MRLTD ran 1in ones with no prob...I'd ask him to make double sure, I'm sure he'll chime in tho.

                      2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
                      My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Mercmarquis
                        Kinda...Backspace is the measure between the back of the wheel mounting flange and the edge of the rim. To keep the same backspace you'll need the 1.5" spacers.

                        That doesnt change when going to a wider rim...

                        Your way is just a rule of thumb so you dont end up with your wheels sticking out past your fenders all redneck style. We are worried about having enough clearence around your control arms. We dont have to worry about the wheels pokin out of the fender.

                        So if you went with the 1" ones you might run into clearence issues with your control arm cause the wheel wont be far enough away. But I think MRLTD ran 1in ones with no prob...I'd ask him to make double sure, I'm sure he'll chime in tho.
                        That would be wonderful! Yeah, the rims clear (like two pieces of paper clear) with 1/4" spacers right now, so I'm sure a 1" spacer would be good. But if a 1.5" or 1.25" spacer puts the wheel back to where its supposed to be, then I'll get those.
                        1989 Town Car Cartier: 3G Alt. Upgrade, Mark VIII Electric Fan, Police Interceptor Suspension, 40-series Flows, loaded. HO+ Conversion: E7 heads, Cobra 1.7RR's, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, FMS "E" Camshaft, 4-hole 19lb/hr injectors, A9P ECM, 76mm C&L MAF, BBK CAI. 338,000Km, stock bottom-end.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          You did bring up a valid point about the wheel center line, I think the 1.25" ones are a good compromise. I'm not the best at this, but I know it works on my car. I tried to explain it to the best of my knowlege. I hope I helped ya out a little bit.

                          2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
                          My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Mercmarquis
                            You did bring up a valid point about the wheel center line, I think the 1.25" ones are a good compromise. I'm not the best at this, but I know it works on my car. I tried to explain it to the best of my knowlege. I hope I helped ya out a little bit.
                            You did, and you made me think and do some research, which is always good

                            So, if back-spacing vs rim width in this particular situation is irrelevant and I'm simply trying to put the wheels back to the factory centreline, if the wheels I have are 5.5" back-spacing and the stockers are 4.25, then I need a 1.25" spacer, which is Eibach part number 90.4.30.005.3

                            Will need to check into the availability and pricing on those tomorrow.

                            Of course in the interim, if somebody has some additional words of wisdom, I'm all ears
                            1989 Town Car Cartier: 3G Alt. Upgrade, Mark VIII Electric Fan, Police Interceptor Suspension, 40-series Flows, loaded. HO+ Conversion: E7 heads, Cobra 1.7RR's, Explorer intake, 65mm TB, FMS "E" Camshaft, 4-hole 19lb/hr injectors, A9P ECM, 76mm C&L MAF, BBK CAI. 338,000Km, stock bottom-end.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Maximum motorsports also sell hubcentric spacers, I think for a tad less than those eibach. I'm running 1" spacers without any issues and plenty of clearance. I have beat the crap out of my non hubcentric ones and have not had any issues.
                              Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

                              Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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