Need some opinions for my H.O conversion

[91LTDProject]

The motors gonna be comin out of the 90 after I get some of the bodywork done, and then I can park it. I just cant figure out what I'm gonna do with it. If the motor is out, I should take some time to go through the bottom end and check out all the specs and such, but I dont have easy access to any measuring tools, and I dont know if machining is going to fit into my buget anyways. If I have too I'll take the block to school and use their measuring tools. One of my really good friends is friends with a machinist, but if I get the block all machined up, then I'm probly gonna have to go to oversized pistons/rings, not really worth it on a stock 5.0 block, and not in the budget. Engine has 160000km, has been owned by old people its entire life, but it towed a 17" trailer now and then. So when I pull this motor out and strip it, what are the main things I should be looking for. Oil pumps getting replaced. I couldnt find any posts on here, but could someone post a link if possible of all the specs for a 5.0? I'll pull a couple pistons and check the o.o.r and taper, and if its not too bad, maybe do a hone and rings. Also need to find a cam, I dont really want to use a junkyard cam, maybe something just slightly hotter than a stock H.O cam, but nothing that will end up bangin the valves off the pistons. And are there any issues to watch out for when changing the heads, cause I know the mustangs use pistons with valve reliefs cut out and the vics dont.

[89LincolnTWNcar]

Use the stock HO cam, everyone else will chip in on this one, because any other cam requires tuning or it'll run funky. Add some 1.7 roller rockers for additional lift.

[91LTDProject]

Ya, was thinkin bout doin the rockers. Forgot to mention, any changes with pushrods, lifters, ect with the head swap. Hydraulic lifters, solid lifters, roller cam, flat tappet cam, whats in our cars stock. the MKVII has 130000 km on it, should I just pull the cam out of it? Also, is there any common problem areas on the E7 heads to look for just visually. I can have the heads magnafluxed at school for free, but I gotta get them there first, which means buying them, and the scrapyard dosent offer any type of gaurantee on heads. There $45 a head, which I dont think is that much, but its money wasted if the heads are cracked or fucked up in any way.

[mrltd]

More than likely all the motor will need is bearings, a quick hone, and new rings. No problems with the heads, the EFI lopos run a roller cam stock, all you need to do is swap cams.

[91LTDProject]

I dunno how to go about ordering bearings and rings though. Since the motor does have wear on it obviously, your not going to just order a set of stock bearings and drop em in, or am I wrong. I would think the same would go for getting new rings. I think.

[Nathan in MI]

Well, unless you get the crank turned, you have to use standard size bearings. And if the crank is in bad enough shape to need to be turned, it shouldn't be used at all until it's turned down, and then you'll need undersized bearings.

Same thing with the rings. The only reason to use oversize rings is if you have the block bored out, and then of course you'll need new pistons as well.

[88grandmarq]

Never had to do much machine work to any of the 85 up motors I have built.
order standard bearings and rings.
Hone the clylinders as best you can, then take it to a machine shop, have them clean the block (vat or hot tank), install new freeze plugs and cam bearings. take it home and assemble it.

HO cam with 1.7 rockers will give you enough power. Push rods are all the same length on the hydraulic roller motors.

[91LTDProject]

If I strip my block down, i can get it cleaned at school for nothing. I dunno anything about cam bearings or how theyre replaced, anyone care to enlighten me? Also maybe some manufacturers and parts numbers of where I can get a good set of bearings ould be helpful, the rebuild kits on ebay look cheap. Wherecan I get frost plugs? or do they come with alot of kits.

[Nathan in MI]

Cam bearings must be pressed in with a hydraulic shop press, so that will have to be done by the machine shop.

I believe if you go to your local auto parts store and ask for a "master engine kit" or something like that, it will come with pistons/pins/rings, rod/main/cam bearings, frost plugs, and full gasket set. Whether you want to replace all that stuff or not is up to you, but anything that you get at your local store ought to be guaranteed, so if something turns out to be junk you have some recourse. Since you'll have the engine out of the car and you're replacing the frost plugs, it would be a good idea to get a frost plug heater to put in place of one of the frost plugs so that you can plug it in in the winter to heat up the coolant.

[mrltd]

Cam bearings must be pressed in with a hydraulic shop press, so that will have to be done by the machine shop.

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That is incorrect. I installed mine with a cam bearing tool. It's a big punch that has interchangable heads that are different size for different bearings. And you just hammer them in.

[Nathan in MI]

That is incorrect. I installed mine with a cam bearing tool. It's a big punch that has interchangable heads that are different size for different bearings. And you just hammer them in.

Huh...that's interesting. I've never heard of doing it that way. Where do you get something like that?

[Mr. Land Yacht]

I'd suggest buying new lifters as well...
and a timing chain.
look for the scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, they will give you around.035" lift instead of .030"...not much difference, though.
try looking on Corral.net for some of those parts.

[91LTDProject]

timing sets a given. I dont really want/need new pistons, just the rings and the bearings. how much would a set of lifters run, new or re-conditioned or whatever. I've yet to start looking for a set of rockers. I'd probably just pay to have the cam bearings done

[mrltd]

Huh...that's interesting. I've never heard of doing it that way. Where do you get something like that?

the one I used was snap on or blue point.

here's comp cams one...
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...gory_Code=BRNG

[gadget73]

Yeah the cam bearings do need that tool. Most machine shops have one and will install them for like 20-30 bucks or something. I'd also have the crankshaft checked with a micrometer and polished if its good. If the crank is out of tolerance, you can have it cut to a standard undersize bearing, or just order a crank kit that comes with the right bearings. Its probably OK but I would definitely have it checked with a micrometer to be sure. Same thing with the cylinders, have them checked with a bore gauge. Usually you can tell if they're OK though. If you still see visible crosshatch marks, and the ring land isn't very noticeable, its likely fine. Check the piston ring end-gap to confirm it if you don't have a bore gauge. Usually with a Ford smallblock a light hone is all thats neccesary on a decently maintained engine.