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    OK, the time has come!

    After much thought, I've finally decided to use my brain and convert to a Carb.
    It will be more fun and cost less.
    So, other than a Carb, Intake and mechanical fuel pump, what else do I need?
    what do I do about the existing fuel pump?
    thanks for any input...

    -Colin
    BTW, I planned to get the Edelbrock performer carb and intake, are those good enough?600 CFM?
    sigpic
    1989 Ford Crown Victoria
    99K

    #2
    I will get back with you later.
    Scars are tatoos of the fearless

    Comment


      #3
      hhmmm... if you plan to run a mechanical fuel pump, you will need the proper timing cover and the tools to get it off with. might as well put in a new timing chain then too.
      dont forget the air cleaner, fuel lines/fittings, new throttle cable, Lokar TV cable, vacuum advance distributor... i forgot something
      Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
      'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
      sigpic
      85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

      Comment


        #4
        Congrats, you made a great choice! You need will also need to replace your ignition box with either a duraspark 2 or an aftermarket one like MSD. Also you need a different dizzy, I use a duraspark one(works great). Since you have a roller cam I think the one you need is from an 85 mustang GT with a 5 speed. Its like 20 bux at a parts store for a new reman. You could also buy an aftermarket one if you got teh cash but its not needed.

        Fuel issue, you need to drop the tank and take out the fuel pump and put a piece of 3/8 brake line in its place. Then you have to cap off the factory return line. Either splice into the factory fuel supply line or run your own. You can do either a mechanicle pump setup, but you will need a different timing cover cause the boss for the pump is casted over. Or you can get an electric fuel pump for a carb like a holley blue pump and splice it into the fuel line and be done with it.

        Throttle linkage, you need to get a universal lokar throttle cable and a TV cable.

        The performer 600 carb should be ok, but I would spring for a performer RPM intake. The regular performer doesnt flow much better that the stock factory ford 4bbl intakes. The carb will accually be a bit big, but if your planning on future mods it will be great.

        But since your gonna have the intake and all that shit off, might as well throw a hotter cam in there too.

        2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
        My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

        Comment


          #5
          couldn't I just pull the relay for the fuel pump?
          sigpic
          1989 Ford Crown Victoria
          99K

          Comment


            #6
            no. Dropping the tank isnt that bad anyway, Just pull it down far enough to get the pump and stuff out.

            2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
            My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

            Comment


              #7
              Drop it all the way, its easier than trying to work with it half in the car. Don't be too surprised if it starts leaking once you pull it. Sometimes the straps wear the tank thin at the bottom, and they'll leak once you get it back together.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment


                #8
                Why the hell would you want to get rid of your electric fuel pump, thats free hp. Just run a regulator and use your return line. Set it at 7psi, no need to drop the tank and waste time money and HP.
                Chris - A 20th Century Man \m/ ^.^ \m/

                Comment


                  #9
                  Intake best choice edelbrock EDL-2921
                  second choice ...........EDL-5021

                  Carb BG 650 Speed Demond vacuum secondarys with optinal electric choke .... 128010VE <may not be the proper # for choke.

                  Fuel Pump Summit .... SUM-63163K

                  3/8 Aluminum fuel line 25 ft or so.

                  A bunch of fittings as required.

                  Fuel filter ..... AEI-12308 or MAA-3140

                  Make your own tank pick up. I post some picks of mine.

                  Thats the worst of it.
                  Scars are tatoos of the fearless

                  Comment


                    #10
                    a 650 will be too big for a standard lo-po/stock trans 302 carb conversion. unless you plan on doing some mods soon stay 600 or lower. Your wallet will thank you

                    RIP Jason P Harril, we'll miss ya bro

                    '80 Town Coupé
                    '84 Towncar - Teh Cobra TC, 408w powered
                    '16 Ram 1500 CC Outdoorsman, Hemi/3.92/8sp 4x4

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      a 650 will be too big for a standard lo-po/stock trans 302 carb conversion. unless you plan on doing some mods soon stay 600 or lower. Your wallet will thank you
                      His engine isnt going to be a stock lopo.
                      Scars are tatoos of the fearless

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Mine wasnt either and a 600 edelbrock was plenty, even after detuning it.

                        RIP Jason P Harril, we'll miss ya bro

                        '80 Town Coupé
                        '84 Towncar - Teh Cobra TC, 408w powered
                        '16 Ram 1500 CC Outdoorsman, Hemi/3.92/8sp 4x4

                        Comment


                          #13
                          im only running a 650 carb on mine.

                          a 302 with a 95% VE (a full race engine) turning 6500 rpm requires a 650 minimum.
                          a 302 with typical 90% ve running 6000 requires 566 to 708 cfm. The bigger you go the more power it will make up high (typically)

                          Without looking up the PN turbo posted. The Edelbrock Performer RPM air gap is regarded as about the best street intake out. If you can afford the price difference it is worth it.

                          MM&FF did a test between the regular performer RPM, the air gap and the Victor. The air gap produced about 25HP more at typical street rpms than the victor and only gave up about 4HP at 6000 RPM to the victor.
                          http://secondhandracing.com/Home.aspx
                          http://secondhandradio.com/

                          R.I.P. Jason P Harrill 6-12-06

                          http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5634

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by DuceAnAHalf
                            im only running a 650 carb on mine.

                            a 302 with a 95% VE (a full race engine) turning 6500 rpm requires a 650 minimum.
                            a 302 with typical 90% ve running 6000 requires 566 to 708 cfm. The bigger you go the more power it will make up high (typically)

                            Without looking up the PN turbo posted. The Edelbrock Performer RPM air gap is regarded as about the best street intake out. If you can afford the price difference it is worth it.

                            MM&FF did a test between the regular performer RPM, the air gap and the Victor. The air gap produced about 25HP more at typical street rpms than the victor and only gave up about 4HP at 6000 RPM to the victor.
                            With the heads and cam he is running any dual plane would only choke the engine. A 650 with vacuum secondarys will work fine. If it was a double pumper maybe a bit large.

                            A performer flows about 150 to 160 CFM, a RPM flows 160 to 170 CFM, A VrJr around 208. Thats on a head that flows 235 CFM at .500 lift. A stock head flows around 150 and wouldnt pull that CFM out of any of those manifolds. A better flowing head will always pull more air through an intake.

                            Not long ago a test with one of my boats I had an RPM, an Air Gap and a Torker II. Engine was a 454 315HP stock cam and lower end. Heads were Edelbrock Performer RPM oval ports mild port work by me. The boat came with peanut port oval ports. It ran 75MPH with the peanut heads a 830 Holley and the RPM intake. It was fast lots of bow rise on take off had to stand up sometimes to see over the bow taking off this was a sit down boat.
                            After swaping the heads I tried each manifold with the 830 carb as is and the stock short block. The Air Gap and RPM ran close to the same the RPM was a bit better. Both had bow rise as before the boat still did 75 but because of the heads it got there a bit quicker. The Torker was mind blowing no bow rise the boat just poped out of the water. Hit 75 so fast it would out accelerate jet boats 7 feet shorter than my stern drive boat. Many of these boats had engines way more powerful than mine. Top speed at this point could have been increased to 85 or 90 with a bigger prop. About a .550 lift cam would have realy added a lot might hit over 100 with it at that point.
                            I dont know what else was done to that test engine but it didnt have a set of my heads on it.

                            We are looking at a 302 here that should pump out close to 400 HP more or less
                            Last edited by turbo2256b; 12-13-2006, 01:31 PM.
                            Scars are tatoos of the fearless

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by turbo2256b
                              With the heads and cam he is running any dual plane would only choke the engine. A 650 with vacuum secondarys will work fine. If it was a double pumper maybe a bit large.

                              A performer flows about 150 to 160 CFM, a RPM flows 160 to 170 CFM, A VrJr around 208. Thats on a head that flows 235 CFM at .500 lift. A stock head flows around 150 and wouldnt pull that CFM out of any of those manifolds. A better flowing head will always pull more air through an intake.

                              Not long ago a test with one of my boats I had an RPM, an Air Gap and a Torker II. Engine was a 454 315HP stock cam and lower end. Heads were Edelbrock Performer RPM oval ports mild port work by me. The boat came with peanut port oval ports. It ran 75MPH with the peanut heads a 830 Holley and the RPM intake. It was fast lots of bow rise on take off had to stand up sometimes to see over the bow taking off this was a sit down boat.
                              After swaping the heads I tried each manifold with the 830 carb as is and the stock short block. The Air Gap and RPM ran close to the same the RPM was a bit better. Both had bow rise as before the boat still did 75 but because of the heads it got there a bit quicker. The Torker was mind blowing no bow rise the boat just poped out of the water. Hit 75 so fast it would out accelerate jet boats 7 feet shorter than my stern drive boat. Many of these boats had engines way more powerful than mine. Top speed at this point could have been increased to 85 or 90 with a bigger prop. About a .550 lift cam would have realy added a lot might hit over 100 with it at that point.
                              I dont know what else was done to that test engine but it didnt have a set of my heads on it.

                              We are looking at a 302 here that should pump out close to 400 HP more or less
                              I was not recomending a bigger carb, just showing that a 600 is a good size.
                              http://secondhandracing.com/Home.aspx
                              http://secondhandradio.com/

                              R.I.P. Jason P Harrill 6-12-06

                              http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5634

                              Comment

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