heatercore?

[interceptor1985]

Thats what we did with the wheel. cuz it would be a pita to put back in and we didn not fully remove the dash. oh and we also used my shop vac to suck the anti freaze out of the core so it would not drip all over the inside and we also cleaned up under the dash were it blew all over GOOD AS NEW

[monterey1962]

Heater core is going out in the CV. The fella I bought the car from last March even showed me the receipt for the new core that went in a month before I bought the car. It was the same shop that put a faulty core in my '88 GM and wouldn't lift a finger to respect the warranty, so it's not a surprise that this core only lasted eight months. The core I put in will be from Ford.

So, how do you do this again? Is it really necessary to drop the steering column in an '89 CV?

Also, the "floor" setting does not work. I'm assuming the mechanic forgot to hook something up underneath when he did the core.

[91LTDProject]

My floor setting also does not work. Replaced the control panel for heating, a/c on the dash because the one slider was messed up, and it didnt change. One mechanic at my shop says that it a common problem with these cars, something to do with vacumn not working properly and something getting stuck in the duct system, like a butterfly valve. I'm sure someone else can shed more light on this than me. I have a feeling that my heatercore is going also, loosing coolant, cant find any visible leaks, passed a hydrocarbon test, so its not the heads, and the windows randomly fog up. I think ford hung the heater core on a string and built the car around it.

[monterey1962]

Damn it, all the old heater core replacement write-ups are dead links from the previous forum format. Anyone care to redo a write-up? If or when I do mine, I'll do my best to provide details and possibly pics, but I'm broke and have no intention of doing it anytime soon.

[monterey1962]

Just called Ford. Two different cores available and can't interchange them. One is copper and one is aluminum. Varies from $95 to $112. How the hell am I supposed to know which one to use so I can order it before pulling the car apart? Which is better, copper or aluminum?

[gadget73]

Floor setting not working with ATC is almost always a failed thermal blower lockout switch. Its located in one of the heater hoses, probably at the back edge or just behind the valve cover on the passenger side. Unplug the electrical connector and jumper it. If you have a working blower now, thats your problem. I take those things out and just connect the wires together permanantly. That TBL thing sucks.

[monterey1962]

Hmm, TBL . . . Scott, is that the same thing that broke on S.U. in PA when we pulled it off and we got the other one from the red Linc.?

[Lincolnmania]

Hmm, TBL . . . Scott, is that the same thing that broke on S.U. in PA when we pulled it off and we got the other one from the red Linc.?

yes

[Mr. Land Yacht]

I paid my uncle to do mine.
a local shop wanted 400 bucks to do it...screw that!
my uncle did it for $120.
he had it done fairly fast for the amount of work involved.

[defrost3]

I take it there is no kind of temporary fix for a heater core that is going out then, I just put a rear end on my 86 MGM and really dont look forward to replacing the heater core yet, it sounds like a really frustrating and involved job...Just wondering if there were any ways to plug it temporarily etc.

[Tiggie]

I take it there is no kind of temporary fix for a heater core that is going out then, I just put a rear end on my 86 MGM and really dont look forward to replacing the heater core yet, it sounds like a really frustrating and involved job...Just wondering if there were any ways to plug it temporarily etc.

You can bypass it by some creative hosing. No heat though.

[erocksteady]

Floor setting not working with ATC is almost always a failed thermal blower lockout switch. Its located in one of the heater hoses, probably at the back edge or just behind the valve cover on the passenger side. Unplug the electrical connector and jumper it. If you have a working blower now, thats your problem. I take those things out and just connect the wires together permanantly. That TBL thing sucks.

Just resurrected this ancient thread...I get the classic faint whiff of coolant when I first turn my heater on, lasts for about 10 seconds, then it's gone. (Yes, it's still very non-almost-July-weather in the Pacific NW). I REALLY don't want to do the heater core job...ugh. Guess I'll go for as long as I can.

Anyone have experience with aftermarket TBL switches? RockAuto has a $16 "Four Seasons" switch. Am I better off bypassing the thing altogether? Someone in the "other" Panther thread claimed their aftermarket TBL broke within days of install and spewed coolant all over the place.

[gadget73]

I had one of those on my car for about 2 weeks before it exploded and caused the engine to overheat. That ended my attempts with Four Seasons parts. You can replace it if you'd like, but for durability and simplicity, its hard to beat just getting rid of it.

[erocksteady]

I had one of those on my car for about 2 weeks before it exploded and caused the engine to overheat. That ended my attempts with Four Seasons parts. You can replace it if you'd like, but for durability and simplicity, its hard to beat just getting rid of it.

good to know. thanks for the input!

[erocksteady]

So last night I unplugged the TBL, put a jumper in there and my floor heat came on, as expected (thanks!). I plugged it back in, and now it's working. So I'm not gonna touch it. However, if I do bypass it, I'll patch the heater hose and short the electrical connection, but what about the other two lines (small black & white)? Are they vacuum lines? What do I do with them?