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Attn: CALLING ALL EEC-III GEEKS!

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    #16
    Carb swap is easier than repairing a VV
    Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

    Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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      #17
      Originally posted by mrltd
      Carb swap is easier than repairing a VV
      Cheaper, too...
      1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
      Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

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        #18
        timing is still adjustable mang........i know, werked extensively on a 82 towncar
        make sure plugs, wires, cap and rotor are decent......fuel filter too

        oh and lincoln towncars towncoupes and mark 6's were eecIII cfi
        never seen the mentioned 351w cars u mangs speak of, i believe it was a canadian thang

        1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
        2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
        1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
        1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
        2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
        1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

        please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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          #19
          just picked up a 302 Performer RPM
          Scars are tatoos of the fearless

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            #20
            Yeah, timing is deffinitly still adjustable. Even on my 95 Mustang 5.0L the timing is adjustable. The ECU does not take over timing untill partial throttle, and it only modifies the timing, it does not completely control it. Coil pack cars are the only ones that do that.

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              #21
              Originally posted by OneBadLSE
              the only reason i didnt state my problem was because if noone knows the system i would be wasting my time .. .LOL. Sorry im lazy when it comes to that.
              From now on, assume someone knows. There are people here who have seen more oh these cars than you would dare to imagine.

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                #22
                Originally posted by OneBadLSE
                OK, where heres the problem. I have been having a WOT bogg (well - sometimes its almost half throttle to get the bogg) since i have bought the car. Timing at one point jumped 2 teeth...so replaced the chain and realigned timing. Distributor points line up with #1 in the distributor. Fuel pressure is correct reading 30 psi ignition on and 35 psi running with no flux. Car will bogg WOT when just started in the morning. Then will gradually worsen as the car warms. I was thinking crankshaft postion sensor...I have done most anything you guys can think of. as you guys have probably saw, its georgeous (the car) and i just want to enjoy it.

                Oh and BTW, when it hesitates i get a backfire in the air filter to say as if it were running lean. Its quite the opposite. Its running rich (but no black smoke out the pipe. ) Smells of raw fuel all day long. **Cats are new. fuel pump is new/filter**

                the only reason i didnt state my problem was because if noone knows the system i would be wasting my time .. .LOL. Sorry im lazy when it comes to that.

                tHanks in advance!!!
                How much heat does it put out? Fuel economy suck? Try a new thermostat. If the engine runs to cold it wont run right puts it in chike mode. Mine was running at 165 and with new high flow 195. economy went up 4 MPG heat will cook ya. No more fuel smell. Mine had a 180 stat in it before to boot.
                Scars are tatoos of the fearless

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                  #23
                  Timing can be modified on anything. Computer regulated or not. Like a suzuki outboard, non adjustable timing. But the TPS does adjustt timing and fuel. So, fiddle with the tps, lean out the motor, your good to go.
                  1989 Grand Marquis LS
                  flat black, 650 double pumper, random cam, hei, stealth intake, Police front springs, Wagon rear, Police rear bar, wagon front ,exploder wheels, 205/60-15 fronts 275/60-15 rears, 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" offroad x pipe, Eclipse front bucket seats, Custom floor shifter, 4.10 gears, aluminum driveshaft and daily driven. 16.77@83mph

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                    #24
                    What condition are the vacuum lines in? Sounds almost like the MAP is getting the wrong signal. Hope its not bad, they're reeeeeely friggin expensive.



                    The reason people say the EEC III is not adjustable is because there is no pickup in the distributor. It actually has nothing in there, just a rotor. Its also got this hold-down setup thats supposed to not allow it to spin at all. There is a tab on the distributor base that can be ground down or something to allow the thing to spin tho. Ignition is sensed by a crankshaft sensor rather than a pickup in the distributor. This is interpreted by the ECM, then pumped into a standard Duraspark box to fire the coil. Physically spinning the distributor may or may not show much advance with a light, but you should hear a difference in how the motor runs.

                    EEC III has very little in the way of sensors, and pretty much zero for diagnostics. MAP/BMAP, crank position sensor, throttle position sensor, and I think coolant and maybe air intake temp sensors. Same as EEC IV really, but of course the parts are all totally different and non-interchangeable. Or so they say. I wouldn't be hugely surprised if you could swap on EEC IV parts by changing the plugs over. Standard EEC III parts are like 3-4x the cost of EEC IV parts.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                      #25
                      I vote plug wires...but as Scott mentioned, a full tune-up is in order. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, fuel filter.

                      ~Adam

                      '85 2-Door Crown Victoria
                      302 HO, -0.022" E7 Heads, Weiand Dual Plane Intake, Edelbrock 1406 Carb, Mechanical Fuel Pump, HEI Distributor, 180* T-stat, Transgo Shift Kit, HO Governor, Lokar TV/Throttle Cable Setup, B&M Torq Master 2000 RPM Stall Converter, FRPP Trans Cooler, Mustang Shorty Headers, 2.25" Dual Exhaust, Flowtech H-pipe (no converters), Hooker AeroChamber Mufflers, Side-exit Exhaust w/ Chromed 2.5" Tips, '02 PI F/R Shocks, Cut 2004 PI Front Springs in the Rear, PI Rear Sway Bar, 17" SAP Wheels, 245/50/Z17 Michelin Pilot A/S Tires, Cold A/C, Cruise Control, 4.10 Rear End Gears, Trac Lok Diff.
                      '04 Crown Victoria LX Sport, '02 Jeep Liberty
                      '83 Suzuki GS 1100E Motorcycle[/color]

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by gadget73
                        What condition are the vacuum lines in? Sounds almost like the MAP is getting the wrong signal. Hope its not bad, they're reeeeeely friggin expensive.



                        The reason people say the EEC III is not adjustable is because there is no pickup in the distributor. It actually has nothing in there, just a rotor. Its also got this hold-down setup thats supposed to not allow it to spin at all. There is a tab on the distributor base that can be ground down or something to allow the thing to spin tho. Ignition is sensed by a crankshaft sensor rather than a pickup in the distributor. This is interpreted by the ECM, then pumped into a standard Duraspark box to fire the coil. Physically spinning the distributor may or may not show much advance with a light, but you should hear a difference in how the motor runs.

                        EEC III has very little in the way of sensors, and pretty much zero for diagnostics. MAP/BMAP, crank position sensor, throttle position sensor, and I think coolant and maybe air intake temp sensors. Same as EEC IV really, but of course the parts are all totally different and non-interchangeable. Or so they say. I wouldn't be hugely surprised if you could swap on EEC IV parts by changing the plugs over. Standard EEC III parts are like 3-4x the cost of EEC IV parts.
                        Thats some of the best information ive receieved in sometime regarding this EEC system. I will consider it all in my next step towards fixing the mystery problem

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