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    #1

    CV still overheating

    I'm about fed up with this shit. I've put in a new radiator cap, the radiator from the '88 GM, new upper and lower hoses, new 195 deg. thermastat, and had the coolant flushed . . . and the fucker still goes up to 230 deg. F. while in town. I just picked up a new fan clutch, but I truly doubt that is the problem. I have no fuckin' time or money for this shit. Two goddamn Panthers and both aren't able to go anywhere.

    If it's the water pump, I will not be able to afford the trans for S.U. I might as well buy a fuckin' gun.
    Tags: None
    #2
    I dunno, the fan clutch could easily cause the issue.
    Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

    Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

    Comment

      #3
      damn, Where are you getting your water pump from? I got one locally for 18 bux, and its even the aluminum style. I know when I had my car running after the carb swap it ran really hot cause my timing was set way retarded. But I think if your timing was off you would have definetly noticed driving out to SF06 the first time. Also thermostats can be duds brand new. Maybe try running it without a thermostat and see what happens...I dunno I'm trying to give you the least expensive ideas.

      2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
      My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

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        #4
        From what I know, the water pump could be original (137K miles on the CV). I'm going to try and get the fan clutch on tonight and test the car.

        Comment

          #5
          Easy way to test the fan is to warm the car up and shut it off and see how long the fan spins once the engine stops. It shouldn't spin more than a few revolutions (2-3)
          Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

          Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

          Comment

            #6
            You can also watch the clutch face to see if it wobbles. It shouldn't, nor should the fan wobble excessively. The blades might not be perfectly even, and the idiotic spacing will make it wobble some but if it looks like its coupled to the engine through a jello mold, its bad.

            Water pumps are pretty cheap. Its kind of a pain in the ass to change out, but its really not that horrible. If you have the tools, its easily a one day on the weekend taking your time to clean and paint type job. 3 hours if you're just changing it out with no paint or extra time spent.

            Just out of curiosity, what are you using for a temperature sender, a mechanical or an electric? Have you tried swapping out the guage and/or sender from SU just to see if the results are the same?
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment

              #7
              Gadget, both cars are using the same type of electrical sending unit. I do have a mechanical gauge that I was going to hook up and test the cars on when I had time. Odd thing about it, even with the 2-core radiator and new thermastat, S.U. still runs 210-ish. The CV runs 195.

              The water pump seems to be holding on for the moment, but I think it will have to go soon. The new fan clutch seems to have done the trick, for now. The needle didn't even move when driving around town and on the highway with the new clutch. The new clutch also came with a bushing to put over the water pump knob. Scott, I did notice on S.U. that the fan clutch and pulley wobble like crazy. Didn't that new pump lack that knob? I will have to get something in there to stabilize it.

              Let's see, which one is the new clutch . . . ?

              Comment

                #8
                That old one was toast. All that shit on there means it was in bad shape...
                Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

                Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

                Comment

                  #9
                  Yeah it blew it's load. When they leak the oil out like that they wont spin enough.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                  Comment

                    #10
                    hey justin is that new clutch a thermal one sucks about your problems mang my water pump gave out at 131,000 my car used to run 220 befor the new clutch was put in now it runs an ok 210

                    1989 mercury grand marquis gs / 2014 ford focus s daily driver
                    302 lopo with ho upper/ aod with trans go shift kit
                    k code 3:55 posi rear/big brake swap tow package car

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Yes, it's a thermal clutch.

                      Comment

                        #12
                        hmm didnt notice that........damm..........get a new fan clutch for su too if the age is questionable

                        1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                        2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                        1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                        1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                        2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                        1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                        please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

                        Comment

                          #13
                          aluminum radiater and 160 degree thermostat. How hot is your summers? that can be part of the problem?
                          YouTube. FaceBook Crown Vic Group

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Fuck the 160. You need a 195 on an EFI Ford or you'll toast your plugs and cats, not to mention losing immense gas mileage. The computer will keep dumping fuel until it reaches operating temperature.
                            2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
                            1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
                            1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

                            Comment

                              #15
                              The 195 tstat in my car runs it between 190-210 depending how hot it is. I've seen it hit 220 on really hot days with the AC on stuck in traffic or something but thats it. As long as it doesn't consistantly run that hot you're probably OK. 200-210 normal running in the summer is about right.
                              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                              Originally posted by phayzer5
                              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                              Comment

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