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Those look like the set of FRPP headers I was looking at about a month ago. But then again, what the hell do I know?Nick
88 Colony Park LS
G-pa's old car, but he's cruisin around heaven in his 69 wagon now
Future plans:Semi HO conversion, or Explorer motor swap, shift kit, PI springs and sway bars, KYB-GR2 shocks
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they may be too quite too....
Thats the problem with cheap mufflers...they are either too loud or too quite.
2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene
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Well i went to the exhaust shop that was recommended to me and there was only a garage door company. Not sure if they moved or are out of business, dont remember the name to look it up. I went to a different one and according to the guy there it is illegal to take off cats anywhere, not just inspection states, and he couldn't install headers or change pipe size...first i heard of that. So basically they wont even touch my car and there is no other shops around that i would trust with my car so whatever i do i have to do myself.
So i have absolutely zero experience installing exhaust so i will have a few more questions.
1)If i get the headers will they bolt right up and fit to this h pipe?
2) how do you hang the h pipe , tailpipes, etc. from the frame?
3) will i need to cut the h pipe somewhere and add more pipe to make it long enough, if so how much longer, and how do you hold the pieces in place(i dont have any welding equipment)
4)do i need a seperate piece to complete the H between the two pieces?
5) how do i attatch this muffler to the H pipe? The h pipe has flanges on the ends and the muffler is just a pipe.
6) will i need extra pipe from the tailpipe to the back of the car.
7)not sure what tips i want but nate's look cool, what kind are those?
8) will i need something to seal the drivers side o2 sensor hole on the h-pipe?
9) anything else i will need besides some clamps and what i described here.
is there an exhaust write-up anywhere, i didn't see one, but i might have missed it. The total i got for headers, h pipe, mufflers, and tailpipes came out to $507, does this sound about right?
How hard is this to do yourself, i think i might be overcomplicating things in my head. Its a daily driver so i dont want to screw up anything more than i can handle. Sorry i'm a pain in the ass with the questions, but i really appreciate the help.
1984 Grand Marquis GS - CFI-SEFI conversion, Explorer 302, GT40 intakes, GT40P heads, 1.7 roller rockers, HO Cam, ASP Underdrive Pulley, 2.5" Dual exhaust, Flowmaster Delta 50 mufflers, 3.55 Trac-Lock, Rear disk's, Moog cargo coils, ES rear poly bushings, PI front and rear sway bars, 3G alt., Mark VIII fan, custom Auto-meter dash
1990 Crown Victoria Country Squire - Explorer 302, HO cam, dual exhaust, 3.55 Trac-Lock, PI rear sway bar (SOLD)
1982 LTD Wagon (R.I.P.) -|-1984 Grand Marquis LS(R.I.P.)
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Oh, and a few other things: How do those $15 summit mufflers compare to the flowmasters, i didn't notice much difference in some videos i found in old posts. Also how much louder will having no cats make it, i dont want anything to annoying, just louder. and last, how would these summit headers compare with these BBK headers?
1984 Grand Marquis GS - CFI-SEFI conversion, Explorer 302, GT40 intakes, GT40P heads, 1.7 roller rockers, HO Cam, ASP Underdrive Pulley, 2.5" Dual exhaust, Flowmaster Delta 50 mufflers, 3.55 Trac-Lock, Rear disk's, Moog cargo coils, ES rear poly bushings, PI front and rear sway bars, 3G alt., Mark VIII fan, custom Auto-meter dash
1990 Crown Victoria Country Squire - Explorer 302, HO cam, dual exhaust, 3.55 Trac-Lock, PI rear sway bar (SOLD)
1982 LTD Wagon (R.I.P.) -|-1984 Grand Marquis LS(R.I.P.)
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Mine aren't loud. I have a set of the cheapie Summit turbo muffs with cats and the car is fairly quiet, which suits my wants perfectly. The quality seems decent, especially given the cost. Even if you want to change them later, you're out less than the price of one decent muffler for the pair.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
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GLASS pack=sh*tpack!!!...
Now if you want good straight tru muffs go for something that has woven stainless steel packing and a perforated core NOT LOUVERED AND NOT GLASS please the good one are a bit more but they will last much much longer than cheap muff's and sound better too............................................... ...........tip if the inside of the muffler is lumpy don't get it some people will argue of this but trust me I read an article on this subject with tests and different engine sizes and this was one of those subjects was handled those $13/$20 glass packs was the worst ones for performance might as well have stock instead of those. oh the article was in SportCompactCar a few years ago, they do performance stuff NOT rice. sorry I rant ......
I would rate headers like this
#1long tubes (wont fit)= best but they dont fit
#2equal length= better
#3shorty's=ok
#4 stock mustang header's=bit better than manifolds great price
#stock 5.0 logs=worstLast edited by interceptor1985; 08-26-2006, 08:26 AM.
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answers...I just did this.
1. Yes. However, if you get 5.0 headers (aftermarket or stock, you need to get the 5.0 h-pipe for ease of installation) the 5.0 headers WILL NOT bolt up to the downpipes/crossover on your car right now. There's a tread, but I don't feel like finding it right now. The enthusiast had to cut and re-weld some stuff. Didn't look like a lot of fun.
2. That looks like the same one I used. It mounts up on the Transmission crossmember. When installing, MAKE SURE that the steel elbow pieces just after the o2 sensor bungs go over it.
3. Not at all. The provided clamp works well; however, you may have to take it somewhere to get welded depending on the laws in your state.
4. Again, no. Never hurts to have some spare pipe around though.
5. I went to Napa and got this EXH42113 and this EXH42113. Those are the extension pipes that come off of the h-pipe to locate your mufflers. On the h-pipe side, you also need two of these: EXH42113. They are the flanges that bolt the ext. pipes to the h-pipes. (Don't forget the bolts, as they don't come w/any.) You'll also need 2 1/2" clamps unless you want to weld the ext. pipes to the muffs. Otherwise its a slip fit and clamp deal.
6. Someone else will have to step in here. All I did since my county doesn't require emission testing is get some 2 1/2" pipe (18") pieces and some 2 1/2" turndowns. Cut to fit just off the muffs and right before the axle. VERY mellow tone when cruising, and everyone knows you're there if you get on it!
Misc: To mount it up to the frame, I got 2 universal hangers from Autozone and found 2 bolt holes in the frame at exactly the right place (like it was meant to be). One of the holes held the stock hanger, and the other was on the opposite side, threaded and everything. Using leftover bolts from the old hangers, I bolted it right up. No worries and approx. 10k miles so far! Btw, the universal hangers I used have a metal strap about 8-10" long with a lot of holes, riveted to a rubber insulated thingy, and that in turn is riveted to another steel thingy that you use the above clamps to attach to the pipes wherever needed.
You may also need an o2 extension kit (brothers perf. sells them cheap online), or you could get an o2 sensor for a mk VI or something, I'm not sure 'cause I got the extensions. Then again you only have one o2 sensor, so I don't know. Mine is SEFI!!!!
To plug the hole, I don't know, just find a small bolt w/ the right thread and screw it in!
Also, unless you're keeping your smog stuff plan on having that small 1" pipe on the pass. side plugged too.
I'm no expert, so proceed at your own risk. It took me about 3 1/2 hrs to do all this. The BIGGEST PROBLEM I had were the nuts/studs that held the old mani's to the cat-downpipe thing. What a bitch! Get a breaker bar or cut the pipe!
Damn, I keep thinking of shit! Unless you're going w/really good headers, get the extra thick exaust mani. gaskets in the rice/perf. aisle at your local parts store. Sealed everything right up! You won't be able to re-use the stock bolts/studs/nuts from the mani's, so get some header bolts from same aisle.
If I think of anything else I'll let you know...good luck!
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I have a similar setup, the only hangers on my whole system are at the back of the mufflers (stock location) and on the tails (also stock). I figure the factory system had no hangers in the middle, so neither does mine. The hangers that were welded to the X for a Mustang were already cut off when I got it. There really isn't anywhere to hook it anyway. If you want to hang it in the middle, probably your best bet is to come up with some method to hang it to the trans crossmember.
And equal length, while making a few more ponies, are sonewhat of a bitch to install and change plugs with. Also, believe it or not, 1.5" primaries on a stock motor will do more for you. The exhaust ports on the stock heads are only 1.5" and keeping the primary tube close to the same size will improve the scavenging effect of the exhaust.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
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