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when I bolted them up, the push rod orientation "appeared" the same.
I will have to some more comparison and measurements.
2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011 89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010 88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006
use GMGTs rockers as the comparison. I would offer mine but, the damn valve covers are a bitch to get off because I have to remove my intake.
on most factory EFI fords you have to remove the upper intake to get at least one valve cover off.
Carbs and CFI are a different story.
2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011 89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010 88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006
when I bolted them up, the push rod orientation "appeared" the same.
I will have to some more comparison and measurements.
The 3.8 rocker length IS longer from the fulcrum to the valve than a 1.6 302 rocker. This is part or all of the ratio difference giving you the 1.7(2) ratio. You can either move the pushrod or make the rocker longer on paper to change the ratio. Since making the rocker longer changes the geometry, you move the pushrod toward the fulcrum to change the ratio from 1.6 to 1.7 on a 302 rocker arm.
Mercracer is right. I guess I look at things from a different prespective, but what he is saying is exactly what I mean by moving the fulcrum...just in a dumber way of saying it.
A length change that big in the rockers is sure to cause some kind of bind or extreme wear.
Like it or not, this thing Eric is doing has a name:
HOT RODDING
All kidding aside dude......Using parts that are obviously incorrect and that will most likely cause damage is not HOT RODDING....
I am all for budget builds and even doing a super cheap build knowing that you are being cheap but seeing how little money you can spend, but using obviously wrong parts makes no sense.
The least that would happen with an incorrect rocker is to cause valve tip and guide damage over some period of time. Worst case is to go off of the tip and pop a keeper which will drop a valve and destroy your motor.
Only way to really see if its gonna work is to bolt one down with paint and run the valve through a cycle to check the wear pattern. Can't hurt to do that.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works
One opening and closing should make it very obvious....
If the contact is past the valve when you initially bolt it down though, there is really no reason to continue.
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