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    occasionaly no start

    Starter is a Powermaster has less than 50 starts on it. it has a external solonoid on it
    fender mounted solonoid has been replaced.

    Occasionally, usually after sitting for a while, but sometimes will do it after a few minutes, when you turn the key it just clicks, then if i jump the solonoid it will crank and then the key will crank it.

    I replaced the solonoid thinking that was the problem and it is still doing it. Maybe the ignition switch in the coloum? Time for a push button starter?
    http://secondhandracing.com/Home.aspx
    http://secondhandradio.com/

    R.I.P. Jason P Harrill 6-12-06

    http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5634

    #2
    My uncle's 95 f-350 dump truck had a simmilar problem. It had a soleniod on the fender and the starter so it might be realted somehow. Anyway I replaced the fender soleniod and it worked fine after that, but there was also a little spade connector on the starter's soleniod that I cleaned up.

    To me it sounds like a bad soleniod only because it clicks when it doesnt start, right? So that click means that the key switch is working. So maybe it might be the starter... I dunno. Push button starters arent too expensive if i remeber.

    2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
    My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

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      #3


      8 bucks aint bad.

      2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
      My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

      Comment


        #4
        Make sure you have a good, clean power supply running to your solenoid. Have you ever replaced it? It could be corroded enough to cause intermittent starting problems.
        Also check the signal wire going from the key to the solenoid- could be shorted out or have dirty connections, not giving a good, full signal.
        2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
        1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
        1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

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          #5
          Originally posted by DuceAnAHalf
          I replaced the solonoid thinking that was the problem and it is still doing it. Maybe the ignition switch in the coloum? Time for a push button starter?
          He already did...I had to edit my post cause I didnt see it either.

          2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
          My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

          Comment


            #6
            How's the battery voltage?

            I had a powermaster alternator...it was a big ole' POS...
            Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

            Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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              #7
              Originally posted by mrltd
              How's the battery voltage?

              I had a powermaster alternator...it was a big ole' POS...
              if i bridge the terminals on the solonoid it kicks the motor over fast and easy. normally the battery sits at about 12.4 or 12.5 , its a Optima yellow top.

              Might just go push button and rewire the entire starting circuit.
              http://secondhandracing.com/Home.aspx
              http://secondhandradio.com/

              R.I.P. Jason P Harrill 6-12-06

              http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5634

              Comment


                #8
                If you run a new wire for the starting circuit you don't need a push button- just hook it in to the stock connection on each end.
                I don't like push button starters because it's tacky to insert the key then press a button. If you wire a switch for the accessories/computer to remove the necessity for a key, someone can walk up and steal your junk. I don't like that idea.
                2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
                1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
                1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

                Comment


                  #9
                  A new solenoid could be bad. Battery cables can corode inside the terminals and look good on the outside .Some I have shortened up an inh or so put on a new end and started fine after that. Cleaning up all ground terminals is a good thing too. The lights and stuff might work well but the starter puts a hell of a lot more of a load on the system thaan any other electrical componet.
                  Scars are tatoos of the fearless

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                    #10
                    The battery cables are 0-guage and are only a few years old. Starter cranks up fine, last night did it again and turned the key and cranked instantly. I might make a new trigger wire, i dont really like how i did it, but i did what i had to do to make it work.

                    Fresh, Without the key you cannot unlock the wheel, right now the only thing the key does is activate the starter and unlock the wheel (besides the lighting and stuff) You could easilly jusp the trigger wires easilly.
                    http://secondhandracing.com/Home.aspx
                    http://secondhandradio.com/

                    R.I.P. Jason P Harrill 6-12-06

                    http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5634

                    Comment


                      #11
                      It seems that i fixed the problem. I was suspecting that the ignition switch was nto suppling enough power for both solonoids. I went and got a small 30amp relay. wired it with 10ga wire from the battery to the relay to the solonoid post. tried it and kicked over fine. Tomorrow i have to rewire it since i dont have the right terminals and wire right now. also ran out of light.
                      http://secondhandracing.com/Home.aspx
                      http://secondhandradio.com/

                      R.I.P. Jason P Harrill 6-12-06

                      http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5634

                      Comment


                        #12
                        http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/index...TS&Category=36

                        if i had a panther for racing, id want one of these switches..... they look cool..... (for racing use only) lmao.... if u say so.....
                        1987 MGM 126K 2" True Duel flowmaster 40's 3" tipped exhuast, Tinted 20% all way round, individual bank A/F guages, tach.

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                          #13
                          Ignition switch. Change it out if it's original...my car's fell apart when I took the steering colum trim off!

                          Disconect the battery to avoid the spark show I saw.

                          ~Adam

                          '85 2-Door Crown Victoria
                          302 HO, -0.022" E7 Heads, Weiand Dual Plane Intake, Edelbrock 1406 Carb, Mechanical Fuel Pump, HEI Distributor, 180* T-stat, Transgo Shift Kit, HO Governor, Lokar TV/Throttle Cable Setup, B&M Torq Master 2000 RPM Stall Converter, FRPP Trans Cooler, Mustang Shorty Headers, 2.25" Dual Exhaust, Flowtech H-pipe (no converters), Hooker AeroChamber Mufflers, Side-exit Exhaust w/ Chromed 2.5" Tips, '02 PI F/R Shocks, Cut 2004 PI Front Springs in the Rear, PI Rear Sway Bar, 17" SAP Wheels, 245/50/Z17 Michelin Pilot A/S Tires, Cold A/C, Cruise Control, 4.10 Rear End Gears, Trac Lok Diff.
                          '04 Crown Victoria LX Sport, '02 Jeep Liberty
                          '83 Suzuki GS 1100E Motorcycle[/color]

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                            #14
                            My izuzu Snub nose truck does that evrey am... Sucks ass to... i gotta weight like 20 min's just turning the key over and over hearing click click click click..... and then when she finnaly cacthes... Errr... Gotta pump that gas... But! ounce shes cranked... there's no stoping her )

                            Got a Big ass ford I forgot what model.. diseal Duely two of them to.

                            one though cranks and shakes like shit then dies it will do that a few times and then it's like she's warmed up... but i swear to god that truck will go from
                            30 - 80 in just a few secounds.. or it seems like that..

                            To bad where allways hauling the Kubota on her though :-/
                            I dont think i ever seen a F--- on her anywhere though just FORD TURBO....Ill have to take pics :-D of the work trucks )
                            People should not be afraid of their governments. Governments should be afraid of their people.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Volkswagens were good for that crap, not enough juice through the switch to fully engage the solenoid. It was a bigger problem on the 6v system. Fix was pretty much what you did, add a relay to run the solenoid.
                              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                              Originally posted by phayzer5
                              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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