Spark plug O-rings

[LibertyAddict]

The Motorcraft one is right. IIRC, it comes with the "F" part separately and you only put it on if you need it. Ours have the rubber hose that goes on, as you can see in your pic. I wouldn't bother with the shitty metal one. The idea is that you plug the opening that you don't use. This is the sort of part that is worth going with Motorcraft.

If the PCV valve has never been changed, it's definitely due. They should be changed regularly on these cars even if they pass the rattle test (i.e. hearing the inner part move around when you shake it). Try changing it and see what happens. I remember when I changed mine, the engine did a lot better with finding its proper idle after a cold start.

Did you actually see coolant in any spark plug wells when you changed the IM? That could certainly cause problems.

Another possible issue might be the idle air control (IAC) valve. It feeds enough air for a proper idle, and it can get gummed up or die outright. Sometimes people describe having to keep their foot on the gas to keep the engine running while in gear. Replacing that is more expensive, so try the PCV valve first.

There was no coolant on the ports when we changed the IM. The crack was lower. I know some fluids creep up.
The rocking should have happened before the replacement if that was the case. Never did once.

Bought the PCV, and the IAC for good measure. Also will be changing the coils(also on their way), and if things don't improve I could try, at least from what I've been reading, cleaning out the EGR, the mass air flow sensor, maybe replacing the fuel pump(fuel filter was changed month and a half ago. I inverted it to get the fluids out and what came out looked like chocolate milk. Was the stock one, 20 yrs old).

[IPreferDIY]

As an FYI, the Hitachi IAC is supposed to be the one Ford uses and therefore the preferred one. I would have mentioned that earlier if I had figured you might go ahead and buy one.

Cleaning the MAF is one of those "can't hurt" things if you do it right, and it should probably be done once in awhile. Just be careful with the delicate wires.

If you're willing to get into cleaning the EGR, as a first step you can check the throttle body and throttle plate, and shine a light in to see how the EGR hole looks. If the throttle body and plate are really dirty, give them a good wipe to the extent that you can. I myself would not bother with the spray stuff.

One thing you can do with the EGR valve is take the vacuum hose off and use a suitably-sized straw to try to bring it up and down several times. On mine, I can hear it closing, so I know I'm making it move. I think I used one of the bendy straws from a drink box.

[LibertyAddict]

As an FYI, the Hitachi IAC is supposed to be the one Ford uses and therefore the preferred one. I would have mentioned that earlier if I had figured you might go ahead and buy one.

Cleaning the MAF is one of those "can't hurt" things if you do it right, and it should probably be done once in awhile. Just be careful with the delicate wires.

If you're willing to get into cleaning the EGR, as a first step you can check the throttle body and throttle plate, and shine a light in to see how the EGR hole looks. If the throttle body and plate are really dirty, give them a good wipe to the extent that you can. I myself would not bother with the spray stuff.

One thing you can do with the EGR valve is take the vacuum hose off and use a suitably-sized straw to try to bring it up and down several times. On mine, I can hear it closing, so I know I'm making it move. I think I used one of the bendy straws from a drink box.

That's the one I got, the Hitachi IAC. That and the PCV are coming on Tuesday.

Today I got the coils. Just got done replacing them.

I noticed one thing on one of the coils, the second from the front on the drives side.
There's like a bent or swell. It's darker where the bump is and smells burnt.



Also. I found some tear on the port for one of the air hoses that is connected to the big air tube coming from the air filter. Check it out.


As a temporary fix, what would you guys recommend?
I'm thinking of tying a long and thin strip of cotton cloth, wrap it a few times and tie a knot. I'm limited on things I can use, I'm away from my tools and scrap sanctuary.

[IPreferDIY]

The boots come off the coils, so if that coil was still good you could still keep it as a spare and swap the boot if you ever use it. BTW, if you can get a scan tool for a decent price (it's like a code reader, but gets more information, including what's happening when the engine is running), it should be able to tell you which cylinders are problematic even if there is no code set.

The tear in the air tube is probably causing problems due to unmetered air getting in. Do you have access to rubber cement? It's the stuff that comes with tube repair kits. That might seal up the rubber for at least a temporary fix. The strip of cloth might serve as a useful reinforcement, but it would be not be ideal without any sealant. RTV or silicone might work if that happens to be the only thing you can get.

[sly]

I'd just put some ultra black on the intake tube. Pull the crack open... feed in some goop... let go of the opening and let the crack squeeze out some goop... use a finger to smooth the inside edge and then let it tack up for an hour to a day. Reassemble and never think about it again. I've done this on several cars, but typically at the point where it connects to the throttle body.

[LibertyAddict]

Just tied the strip of cloth for now. Will be checking in a few day how's holding up.
Added a tube of the ultra black to my AMZ wishlist for the future.
I'm not too worried about this incident. When I go to make the connection the hose pops in pretty nicely. As long as it doesn't move the air shouldn't escape from anywhere.

And...

SUCCESS!!!

Well, at least for now...

Drove it for a few minutes and I felt NO rocking, knocking, shaking, or reduction of RPMs whatsoever. Even with the a/c on, something which exacerbated the symptoms.


Now that all is working fine I probably won't change the PCV and IAC valve for some time. When I do I'll post an update.



Thanks for all the tips and assistance!

[sly]

That's good news. Hopefully it stays that way when warmed up good as well.

[IPreferDIY]

I've been getting zip tubes from a U-pull yard for well under $10 all in, so that's something I would replace at that price. Also, if the PCV valve has not been changed up to 101k miles, you might as well change it, though maybe give it a bit of time to compare before and after performance. The IAC valve only needs to be replaced if it goes bad, but the PCV valve is a regular maintenance item, like a fuel filter.

[sly]

Might be harder to come by in Puerto Rico though.

[IPreferDIY]

Maybe, but if his scrap sanctuary includes a place to get a zip tube for the price of a tube of Ultra Black that might not be used again, ...

[sly]

Point.