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    #16
    Originally posted by 87GrandMarq View Post
    You could try a new coil boot but youll need a new coil eventually.
    What's the difference?

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      #17
      It's a 98. 101k miles.

      It's not that the plug is drenched in oil, just slightly on the threads, and dark(carbonization?) on the spark tab.

      I ordered the coils on AMZ, all 8 of them, last night and they're on their way already. Under 30 bucks the set.
      Asked once at Advance Auto Parts and the guy told me something like 38 bucks per piece!

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        #18
        BTW, coolant levels are fine.

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          #19
          Valve stem seals... Got some homework to do.

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            #20
            Originally posted by LibertyAddict View Post
            What's the difference?
            I wasn't sure initially if you were talking about spark plug wires (on an aero) or COPs, but since it's COPs, the boots are the rubber part, and sometimes you can get away with replacing only the boots. Getting a new set of COPs for so cheap is so much more convenient though, and you can keep the old but good ones as spares.

            Also, not sure what year the problematic all plastic intake manifold started, but the failure of the coolant crossover on my 2000 MGM was nothing more than a teardrop leak on the front passenger side that I happened to notice when it was warmed up. Enough coolant had accumulated in a spark plug well to cause problems.
            Last edited by IPreferDIY; 05-21-2019, 12:44 PM.

            2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
            mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

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              #21
              So the coils are what's inside the rubber tube that goes into the spark plug holes?
              I asked because I've seen the whole assembly advertised as just "coils", "ignition coils".

              I think I saw the coils being sold by themselves. I ordered these Click image for larger version

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                #22
                The actual coil is inside the plastic case. The idea is similar to a transformer with a whole bunch of wire wound around stuff. The spring thing inside the rubber boot is just a conductor to get the juice from the coil to the plug.

                2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
                mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

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                  #23
                  I just checked the engine with the car on and I noticed a noise I hadn't before.
                  The rattle is pretty loud. I don't remember hearing it before.
                  Sounds like there's a ball inside going berserk.

                  Click image for larger version

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                  Last edited by LibertyAddict; 05-21-2019, 01:00 PM.

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                    #24
                    That's the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve. They're fairly cheap and easy to replace. I guess it's telling you it's time. I would recommend only a Motorcraft replacement.

                    2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
                    mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by IPreferDIY View Post
                      Also, not sure what year the problematic all plastic intake manifold started, but the failure of the coolant crossover on my 2000 MGM was nothing more than a teardrop leak on the front passenger side that I happened to notice when it was warmed up. Enough coolant had accumulated in a spark plug well to cause problems.
                      Mine was changed 3 years ago. Bought the one that is aluminum on the front and the rest plastic, on Ebay.
                      Actually, one of my first posts here, if not the first, was about that.

                      The IM cracked on me and the mechanic and I changed it in a couple of hours. All went well, no more coolant leaks, flushed the system and put new juice in, but I must say I noticed a slight rocking after that fix. Which I thought it was air on the coolant system, so I thought no biggie, and I let things be. That very rocking, shaking, got worse with time, and from what I've gathered here I suspect some coolant got into the coils and messed them up, and with time they deteriorated to the point my car now has Parkinson's.

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by IPreferDIY View Post
                        That's the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve. They're fairly cheap and easy to replace. I guess it's telling you it's time. I would recommend only a Motorcraft replacement.
                        Are there more than one PCV valve?
                        I get varied results.
                        Click image for larger version

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                          #27
                          I tried something else and I noticed a decrease of RPMs.
                          When on Parking, all fine, but when I shift to Drive the RPMs drop noticeably, then when I go back to Parking I get a sudden acceleration that lasts a second and the RPMs go back to normal.
                          Also, the rocking seems to happen the most when in Drive.

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Originally posted by LibertyAddict View Post
                            Are there more than one PCV valve?
                            I get varied results.
                            [ATTACH=CONFIG]52055[/ATTACH]
                            The Motorcraft one is right. IIRC, it comes with the "F" part separately and you only put it on if you need it. Ours have the rubber hose that goes on, as you can see in your pic. I wouldn't bother with the shitty metal one. The idea is that you plug the opening that you don't use. This is the sort of part that is worth going with Motorcraft.

                            If the PCV valve has never been changed, it's definitely due. They should be changed regularly on these cars even if they pass the rattle test (i.e. hearing the inner part move around when you shake it). Try changing it and see what happens. I remember when I changed mine, the engine did a lot better with finding its proper idle after a cold start.

                            Did you actually see coolant in any spark plug wells when you changed the IM? That could certainly cause problems.

                            Another possible issue might be the idle air control (IAC) valve. It feeds enough air for a proper idle, and it can get gummed up or die outright. Sometimes people describe having to keep their foot on the gas to keep the engine running while in gear. Replacing that is more expensive, so try the PCV valve first.
                            Last edited by IPreferDIY; 05-21-2019, 04:41 PM.

                            2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
                            mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Can't tell if the intake has been replaced or not. If it does not have the metal coolant crossover (hose goes into the thermostat housing and the crossover from that point to the other side is metal) but instead it's plastic, you need to replace the intake. If it has been replaced... check the torque on the bolts that hold it down. Should be 15-22 foot pounds. The one on my wife's 2000 Crown Vic was actually loose. Tightened it all to spec and it ran great again. Page 14 of the following PDF shows the pattern to tighten the bolts. If any of those are loose, it'll cause problems. If the intake is cracked... it'll cause problems. If the coolant crossover is plastic, it'll cause problems.

                              Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                              rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

                              Originally posted by gadget73
                              ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

                              Originally posted by dmccaig
                              Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by sly View Post
                                Can't tell if the intake has been replaced or not. If it does not have the metal coolant crossover (hose goes into the thermostat housing and the crossover from that point to the other side is metal) but instead it's plastic, you need to replace the intake. If it has been replaced... check the torque on the bolts that hold it down. Should be 15-22 foot pounds. The one on my wife's 2000 Crown Vic was actually loose. Tightened it all to spec and it ran great again. Page 14 of the following PDF shows the pattern to tighten the bolts. If any of those are loose, it'll cause problems. If the intake is cracked... it'll cause problems. If the coolant crossover is plastic, it'll cause problems.
                                http://www.grandmarq.net/sly/2001%20...20Manifold.pdf
                                The mechanic that installed it wanted to do it by feel but I insisted on torquing them. They are torqued to specs.

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