Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

98 MGM | Pulls to the left and shakes

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Page of 1
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous template Next
    #1

    98 MGM | Pulls to the left and shakes

    Dear forum members. This front caliper issue appears only intermittently and after long periods of being parked.

    Car starts to shake at freeway speeds and I keep thinking it's rough blacktop. Then it becomes worse until I start to brake and then...it pulls to the left even while barely moving. Then when I stop at the 50 mile point in the vineyards and let it sit for 1.5 hours, it clears up! The longer it soaks up the heat of the engine ( my guess here ) it performs beautifully. Could these be glide bolts that are seizing or hmmmmm....?!

    I'm currently thinking about replacing both front brake calipers and lubricating the glides with anti-seize.

    I suspect you all have more experience with this however as it may be something easier / harder?

    Sincerely;

    _Hacksaw


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Tags: None
    #2
    Yep, I'd tear the pins out and clean everything real good and then relube with the proper disk brake lube, not anti-seize. Usually it's green in color. Never had one stick yet.
    These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.

    Comment

      #3
      If the pins are rusty, I would suggest just replacing the caliper brackets, and getting new hardware. Assuming the caliper and hose are functioning properly.

      Comment

        #4
        Hold everything for a second with this. If my GM is pulling so hard to the left I should be looking at a 'right' caliper issue in this dynamic. And if so it might appear that this right caliper is not moving or functioning until fully warm. Does this sound like I am at least understanding this issue correctly?


        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by _Hacksaw View Post
          Hold everything for a second with this. If my GM is pulling so hard to the left I should be looking at a 'right' caliper issue in this dynamic. And if so it might appear that this right caliper is not moving or functioning until fully warm. Does this sound like I am at least understanding this issue correctly?


          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
          Yes. Actually. The drivers side is working. Check out the passenger side.

          Comment

            #6
            Replace both. If one is bad, the other will be shortly. I've sort of given up on the one at a time method, it never seems to work out for very long. Last bad caliper I changed, 2 days later the other one went bad.

            Do not use anti-seize. It turns solid with heat. You want the disc brake grease thats designed for this. Its possible that its just the slide pins, so maybe start with cleaning and lubing those on both sides.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment

              #7
              Yes. That is very wise advice and hard earned wisdom. I will also use silicon paste on those glide bolts as well. Might even look at master cylinders on sale if* I can find on that does not brake the bank here. However, new rotors? I'll see what the cost is.

              Next up and after reading the FSM here, I had a instrument cluster light go down on me and can post the photograph if needed. It affects the OD around 30 mph and lower as well as the indicator cluster right next to it to the left as the same place. Tell me this is not going to be hell and torment? Can one easily ( ok, with some effort and patience ) remove this front cowling around the silly instruments and radio etc. or get up far from behind and replace those lamps? They are available for conventional instrument clusters, however the instructions as to how to even get close to them is enigmatic and vague e.g. 'remove steering wheel housing cover' etc. Can this all be worse than dealing with the easy straight ahead front brake calipers etc.?

              _Hacksaw

              p.s. MODERATOR **Software bug** with Tap-Talk or some setting I need to adjust as I keep obtaining 15 messages as per my post with no new replies? I believe this occurred years ago and was being worked on then.

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by _Hacksaw View Post
                Yes. That is very wise advice and hard earned wisdom. I will also use silicon paste on those glide bolts as well. Might even look at master cylinders on sale if* I can find on that does not brake the bank here. However, new rotors? I'll see what the cost is.

                Next up and after reading the FSM here, I had a instrument cluster light go down on me and can post the photograph if needed. It affects the OD around 30 mph and lower as well as the indicator cluster right next to it to the left as the same place. Tell me this is not going to be hell and torment? Can one easily ( ok, with some effort and patience ) remove this front cowling around the silly instruments and radio etc. or get up far from behind and replace those lamps? They are available for conventional instrument clusters, however the instructions as to how to even get close to them is enigmatic and vague e.g. 'remove steering wheel housing cover' etc. Can this all be worse than dealing with the easy straight ahead front brake calipers etc.?

                _Hacksaw

                p.s. MODERATOR **Software bug** with Tap-Talk or some setting I need to adjust as I keep obtaining 15 messages as per my post with no new replies? I believe this occurred years ago and was being worked on then.




                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                Comment

                  #9
                  I think the tapatalk thing is outdated. I'll put it on my list of shit to look at. I got an email about it the other day now that you mention it. I don't use it, so I pay little mind to it.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                  Comment

                  Previous template Next
                  Working...
                  X