Originally posted by pantera77
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Good jack-stand recommendations?
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Yeah. I'd use oak or red oak, especially when its still green.**2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
**2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
**2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
**1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties
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yes, pine will split, particularly if you don't put the weight cross-grain. Concrete blocks also work, but they absolutely must be stacked the correct way, and you really need a board on the top as a load spreader. They also need perfectly vertical weight load. Loading the corner is a sure-fire way to make the block split open and drop the car on you. I use two 2x2 x2 high stacks of blocks under the keel of our boat when its on land for the winter, and it clocks in at about a 6 ton dry weight. Where everyone screws up with blocks is they put the weight on the flat side. They're only strong on the open face, so the holes have to go up or it will just crumble. I probably would not use this for a car though. You never get one perfectly level to evenly load the blocks.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Guy on Pirate 4x4 said he uses cinder blocks, but first filled the holes with more concrete so they're basically solid, and he also uses boards on top and beneath. Must be one heckuva heavy jackstand, though.2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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