The switch was there before I edited it because I forgot to label the 85 pin and my apologies for the inaccuracy of the drawing lol. The pin numbers are correct as to how one should wire it though. You guys drink too much haterade lol.
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Help... I want to try a wild mod, need wiring advice
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I'm sorry i forgot to mention the momentary switch. I'm sorry i mentioned 10GA.
Thats what I used when I wired up my car with the start engine button and such. I just matched the the wires (as in these are 10GA and those are 16GA, so i used 10GA and 16GA to extend them.)
All my switches and buttons are in my center console.
And I don't know of anyone else on here who has a push button start. I just thought i'd give some advice since I've actually done it.
No need to get all offensive. If you guys said "hey, i'm an electrician(or are really good with schematics and such), i think this way would be better" then, I'll go with what you guys say.
Dammit Jim, I'm a turbo-prop jet engine mechanic, not an electrician.
Hope this mod works out for you Hot Rod.
-ryan s.08 Lincoln Navigator L - 233k
03 Mercury Marauder- 63k
97 Ford Crown Victoria HPP "Tank of Justice III" (TOJ3) - 194k -->578.9 miles on ONE tank of gas<--
94 BMW 325i Convertible - 135k
73 VW Super Beetle "Bunky" <----- Wifey's
12 Mini Cooper S - 90k <---- Wifey's
Originally posted by pantera77Well my buddy tells him he knows exactly who loves buying shitboxes.
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y'all are aware the factory wire to the starter relay is 16 or 18 ga right? Its not like it carries any significant amount of current.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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By the way, i just bypassed the ignition switch. There was no running of the wires to the starter and such.
-ryan s.08 Lincoln Navigator L - 233k
03 Mercury Marauder- 63k
97 Ford Crown Victoria HPP "Tank of Justice III" (TOJ3) - 194k -->578.9 miles on ONE tank of gas<--
94 BMW 325i Convertible - 135k
73 VW Super Beetle "Bunky" <----- Wifey's
12 Mini Cooper S - 90k <---- Wifey's
Originally posted by pantera77Well my buddy tells him he knows exactly who loves buying shitboxes.
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I wasn't trying to offend anyone. I knew what you did svt and the way you did it was okay if you would have started using relays it would have been a mess because you have individual switches for everything so it makes sense that you ran heavier gauge wire and just extended everything to a switch capable of the current you needed. My suggestion for what the OP seems to want utilizes one relay and the use of that relay will allow him to use smaller wires for his switch since he wants to use the OD button on the stalk and that just wouldn't be possible without a relay and using heavy gauge wire. If I didn't know what I was doing and I read all of the above posts I would be lost but I am a little savvy when it comes to wiring and electronics so I just suggested a more simple way of doing what it appears the OP wants to do. I didn't mean to step on anyone's toes.
And Gadget is right and he can correct me if he thinks I am wrong but even though those 16 or 18 gauge wires don't carry a significant amount of current it still would be too much for that little button. The relay takes care of that. If he were to mount a bigger switch or button somewhere else he may be able to just bypass the start wire from the ignition switch without a relay but since that is not his goal I would use a relay.
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Yeah, I should go snag a shifter stalk from the junkyard and futz around to see whats up. I think the actual difficult part would be finding a small enough momentary button for the end of the shifter stalk.
I like the switches. Sometime soon I'll have a sheet metal box made up so my set up doesn't look like ass.
I'm also not a fan of relays. They just piss me off. Or it's because I don't understand wiring them.
Oh well.
I did use 10GA to the Start button because it was 10GA on the ignition switch.
The one thing i dont understand is the proposed use of the kill switch. I don't see where it would be used. I use one, but I have my reasons.
Lets see this get done!
-ryan s.08 Lincoln Navigator L - 233k
03 Mercury Marauder- 63k
97 Ford Crown Victoria HPP "Tank of Justice III" (TOJ3) - 194k -->578.9 miles on ONE tank of gas<--
94 BMW 325i Convertible - 135k
73 VW Super Beetle "Bunky" <----- Wifey's
12 Mini Cooper S - 90k <---- Wifey's
Originally posted by pantera77Well my buddy tells him he knows exactly who loves buying shitboxes.
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You could wire the kill switch sever ways. By adding a kill switch you are going to open a circuit and prevent the car from being started. You could wire up a switch to the fuel pump, I'm sure you could shut down the injectors but that would probably be harder, you could shut down ignition, or prevent it from cranking at all. I would suggest cutting the fuel off because if you prevent it from being cranked all anyone has to do is turn the ignition on and jump the starter solenoid. There are different ways of doing the same thing but the point is to have the switch that will shut off whatever you choose to be out of sight and not in a logical place. You could put a three way switch like a floor dimmer switch for headlights under your carpet so it can't be seen but you know where it is. You could wire it so if it is switched one way and you turn the key it will start but switched the other way when you turn the key it could do something like blow the horn. I have seen that done and it is pretty cool. The trick is to not mess with the wires right by the column but do it else where because you don't want them bypassing your horn blowing kill switch in one fell swoop by hot wiring the car. Although the steering lock would normally prevent this but with your board of switches it would be easy to hot wire because you basically did all of the work anyway and all they have to do is flip switches. But your starter button could go to that three way switch I talked about under the carpet somewhere and one way it would start when the button is pressed and the other way it would blow the horn or whatever else creative you could come up with.
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I was talking about a kill switch for this mangs car.
I already have a 3-way switch somewhere in my car.
I don't mean to threadjack in here.
thanks for understanding!
-ryan s.08 Lincoln Navigator L - 233k
03 Mercury Marauder- 63k
97 Ford Crown Victoria HPP "Tank of Justice III" (TOJ3) - 194k -->578.9 miles on ONE tank of gas<--
94 BMW 325i Convertible - 135k
73 VW Super Beetle "Bunky" <----- Wifey's
12 Mini Cooper S - 90k <---- Wifey's
Originally posted by pantera77Well my buddy tells him he knows exactly who loves buying shitboxes.
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