Ok this is starting to piss me off. My vic has always had alittle play but it seems to be getting worse. I just did the brakes at christmas and bled the whole system and I think I did it correctly. It still had alittle play but not as bad as before the brake job. What should I do? So I re-bleed the brakes and see what happens there? Maybe it is the brake lines expanding and time to upgrade to braided steel brake lines? What do you guys think it only has 91.5K on it so I wouldn't think master cylinder.
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Way too much brake pedal play
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Bleed the brakes and see what that does. Make sure the pads are still good too. If you've ever gotten those brakes good and hot, the fluid will boil and cause the pedal to mush. Its a good idea to flush the brake fluid once in a while anyhow just because it sucks moisture, which lowers the boiling point of the fluid and accelerates rust in the brake lines. I'd also inspect the hoses for cracks or other damage.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Ok. The fluid that was in it before did the brake job this christmas was black. I bleed it till it was clean. The hottest I have ever got the brakes is just from getting off the interstate but I haven't been on it for awhile. I will bleed them again here soon and see what that does.2000 Mustang GT "Blondie", 2000 CVPI "Sargent Crusty"
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If your rubber lines are original, they could be crushing in on themselves when you apply the brakes. This would give you the mushy pedal feel. An upgrade to stainless steel lines would eleminate that for the most part. Unfortunately I don't anywhere that sells SS lines for Panthers.Save a seal, club a liberal.
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Any one know the fittings size?
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Quality Parts for Muscle Car, Hot Rod, Racing & more. Trusted by enthusiasts since 1952 for fast & reliable shipping on affordable parts with expert support.
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Well I just got done bleeding my brakes again. The fluid was already brown. I didn't throw on the wheels just yet. It still has the same feeling in the break pedal cause I started it up while it is still up on the stands. I notice there is a bleeder valve on the reservor but no were have I heard that you need to open that up after you do all 4 wheels? I started at RR, LR, RF, LF just like it is suppose to. What is the deal?2000 Mustang GT "Blondie", 2000 CVPI "Sargent Crusty"
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unbolt the master cylinder, where it attached the fluid resivoir to the vac booster, theres a ball nut in there, hold the stem with pliers and spin the ball nut out one turn and check, still play in them, spin it out(loosen) it more until satisfied, check to make sure the brakes arent dragging or youll lite em on fire like i did, only do this if your sure it isnt leaking or air in the system, otherwise its just a temp fixjay--1983 towncar, 302v8 cfi, dual straight pipes w/resonators ,edelbrock motor goodies, custom interior, full custom stereo system, full rebuilt trunk audio setup, custom paint...more to come......
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Thanks for the tip I will have to look into that. I threw my wheels back on and just test drove it. There still is about a half inch of pedal play but stopping is a whole new experience. It is very tight and I can lock them up way easier now. I feels just like my dads lse now exept maybe a half inch of play. I must not have bled them right or something with I did the brakes over christmas.2000 Mustang GT "Blondie", 2000 CVPI "Sargent Crusty"
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