Wheel Bearings

[jaywish]

Post a good picture of what you have now.

[gadget73]

It doesn't really matter as long as both sides are the same. If you mix it up the ABS gets retarded.

The stamped sheet metal looks like a soup can. Its basically a flat piece of metal that is curled inward at the edge. The pot metal one is thicker and die cast.

This is what the pot metal one looks like

http://www.americanmuscle.com/mustang-frontwheel-hub-bearing-9404.html

can't find a decent pic of the other type, but it looks decidedly different.

[pipes1]

this is what I'm working with... still cant tell

[IPreferDIY]

I'm guessing you're going to have to take the wheel off to have a good look.

[His Royal Ghostliness]

I'm guessing you're going to have to take the wheel off to have a good look.

That alone ain't gonna be enough. The tone ring is hidden by the brake rotor, so obviously that one has to come off. Which calls for removal of both the caliper and its bracket as well, since the bracket wraps around the rotor. But yes, once all those are out of the way, the tone ring should be visible. And that is the only way, so bit more work than just dropping the wheel, but still not too bad.

[gadget73]

yeah, it involves taking a bunch of stuff apart.

One way around it, buy 2 new bearings of the same type. Either you've got a spare, or you can change the other one to match.

[His Royal Ghostliness]

Wait, so them wheel bearings are actually different between the two axle types? Never would have guess that... I thought he's only asking about the exciter ring cause he's fixing to buy new axle shaft and needs to know which one to get?

[gadget73]

duh, sorry, for some reason I was thinking front bearings. Those have the ABS ring as part of the bearing. Rear axle bearings is rear axle bearings.

[pipes1]

figured it out, looking for a tool now, would this guy work?

http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/pneumatic-bearing-race-and-seal-driver-master-set/A-p8311565e

[jaywish]

Yes that would be fine but you may want to consider OTC or Lisle. Tooltopia has a nice assortment. The pneumatic part is nice but not 100% necessary.

http://www.tooltopia.com/search.aspx?find=race+bearing

[jaywish]

Those help with the install. You need to get the old ones out first.
Know anyone with a slide hammer and hooks? Maybe you can borrow/rent one for this purpose.

[pipes1]

front went smoothly... too smoothly, rear end took me 9 hours, rented a slide hammer with a bearing puller attachment, but it only extended wide enough to slam the rollers. ended up with just the outer race stuck in there, with no lip to grab onto, as it snapped off with a slide hammer and hooks, i tried using: slide hammer, hook attachment, http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/oe...-1250062p.html , http://www.princessauto.com/en/detai...er/A-p8105256e . Ended up sauteed in STANKY 17 year old gear oil wielding a dremel.

[jaywish]

It can be a bitch sometimes. I had one set like that. Took months for my hand to recover.

[gadget73]

If that ever happens again, remove the axle from the other side and the carrier. Feed a long piece of pipe through the open hole and use that as a big-ass punch to drive the bearing out.

[His Royal Ghostliness]

Also go for the hot wrench, make that axle tube end glow orange and the bearing will come out. It's not like you're concerned about saving the bearing or the seal, so light them up. FYI, when assembling manual transmissions the temperature required for gears and bearings to be heated to so they can simply drop down the shafts is only about 250-300F, whereas if you try to actually press them on you'll have one hell of a hard time. So little heat can make a big difference, use that your advantage next time.