Oh - and a trick that might work - get two BIG hammers and smack opposite sides of the center link around the stud simultaneously, it will eventually fall out on its own. How fast 'eventually' is depends on how much you have in common with Thor.
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Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
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85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo -
ball joint press.
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73
... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
Originally posted by dmccaig
Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.Comment
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Originally posted by 85crownHPP View PostI heard about the hammer trick on CVN, but I'm not too keen on it since I don't plan on replacing the center link right now. I don't have a lot in common with Thor but I'm sure I could still find some way to bugger it up. I'll try a press before anything else, thank goodness for parts store loaner tools.Originally posted by sly View Post
1995 Grand Marquis GS - 156k miles, three-tone until I find my paint
1990 Toyota Camry DX - 211k miles, someone else's future barn find
1994 Saturn SW2 wagon - wife's car
Originally posted by SVT98tComment
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One time my steering box broke of my trucks frame.
Yeah that was fun__________________________________________________
1985.03 Crown Vic. Coupe "CVGT" Build thread - china whirlybird, burnout machine.
The only 6 speed box on a late model frame.
Originally posted by SVT98tComment
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If you use two hammers and strike at the same time, there's no way you can bend the center link if that's what you are worried about. Steering links are pretty effin' strong! That in combination with a BJ press tool might work great, if the tool will still give you room to strike on both sides of the hole.Originally posted by rezwrrd View PostPete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
sigpic
85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereoComment
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A tie rod/pitman arm puller will get that out.Comment
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Ya, that seems to be the best first choice.Originally posted by JeffBoudah View Post
2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCMComment
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I like that idea better. Always forget about that tool because I've never had to dick with the pitman arms.Originally posted by JeffBoudah View Post
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73
... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
Originally posted by dmccaig
Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.Comment
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Or take it off completely, bring it to a bench vise, open the jaws to support it either side, and bfh it out.Comment
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I got the stub out fine with the press, but now I messed up something else. I was using a cheater and snapped off my wrench.
The puller is flared at the end so it won't take a socket, and the box end of my 11/32 wrench is stuck on there. I can't even take the damn thing off. It's starting to round off just using the open end of the same wrench, and it doesn't help that in desperation I tried using the vise grips.
I don't think I'm going to be able to get my deposit back on this one. 
1995 Grand Marquis GS - 156k miles, three-tone until I find my paint
1990 Toyota Camry DX - 211k miles, someone else's future barn find
1994 Saturn SW2 wagon - wife's car
Originally posted by SVT98tComment
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Looks like MANY front end parts need replacing - that is some serious rust there!
"Hope and dignity are two things NO ONE can take away from you - you have to relinquish them on your own" Miamibob
"NEVER trade your passion for glory"!! Sal "the Bard" (Dear Old Dad!)
"Cars are for driving - PERIOD! I DON'T TEXT, TWEET OR TWERK!!!!"Comment
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I would think you'd be able to file down the flaring to get the wrench piece off and fit a socket on.
This is the only way I'd try getting more leverage out of a wrench:
Here's the grinding method I was talking about:
I've seen pics of people cutting into the Pitman arm from the side, but you risk going too deep and messing up the shaft.
You can try hitting the Pitman arm with a hammer while it's under pressure from the puller, but you risk messing up the bearing. Mine took a lot of abuse before I resorted to the grinder, but next time I would skip the hammer.Last edited by IPreferDIY; 06-16-2015, 02:50 PM.
2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCMComment
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Got a die grinder with cut off wheel? Cut the box end open.
Take the puller back, tell them to give you another one because it was unable to be used properly since it was too worn to begin with.Comment
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It's a Wisconsin car. By the time they're fifteen years old, *everything* needs replacing. Makes me wish I lived someplace where cars don't rust away to nothing in just a few years, then I might actually be able to drive something nice.Originally posted by miamibob View Post
Possibly, I might try that. If I had any money I might go out and buy a grinder or a torch to get it off, but after parts and the tool deposits I'm flat broke. Really not having a good week.Originally posted by IPreferDIY View Post
1995 Grand Marquis GS - 156k miles, three-tone until I find my paint
1990 Toyota Camry DX - 211k miles, someone else's future barn find
1994 Saturn SW2 wagon - wife's car
Originally posted by SVT98tComment
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"serious rust"?? I guess it's been awhile since you've been up in Canada, eh? It could definitely use an oil spray.Originally posted by miamibob View Post
I would agree that the stabilizer bar bushings should be replaced. Here's what happens when you let them get too far:
2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCMComment
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