Help! One wheel steering

[87gtVIC]

Since you have some tension on it already just hit the pitman arm with a hammer. It will come out.

[IPreferDIY]

... If I had any money I might go out and buy a grinder or a torch to get it off, ...

I would not recommend a torch. You risk messing up the seal.

[rezwrrd]

Hammering doesn't seem to be helping, I think I'm going to need to borrow or buy a grinder.

How hard is it to remove the steering box? I'd rather not open that can of worms right now, but nothing else I'm trying seems to be doing any good and it might make grinding easier.

[87gtVIC]

You don't wanto to open that can of worms. Gotta remove three large bolts from the drivers side frame a 12point something holding the steering shaft into the box THEN the low and high pressure fittings from the box. Don;t touch it.

[gadget73]

Remove the screw out of the puller and remove the wrench from that end. Once that is off, use a file to repair the flats on the puller enough to get a socket on there.

If it absolutely wont let go, expect to need a new steering box and both of the lines. Theres about zero chance they will come off if the rest of it is this ugly underneath. There is also a possibility that the steering shaft and/or coupler will be in bad shape. The shaft is supposed to slide inside the upper piece, but they are often rusted fast. Fixing that is a real pain in the ass too.

[IPreferDIY]

You don't wanto to open that can of worms. Gotta remove three large bolts from the drivers side frame a 12point something holding the steering shaft into the box THEN the low and high pressure fittings from the box. Don;t touch it.

+1

Grinding on your back isn't so bad, though you'd probably have to get the car up on jack stands or ramps. Whatever you use, make sure it's done properly.

Use a proper cut-off wheel to lessen the strain on the grinder.

Use proper safety glasses, or even better a full face mask if you can get one. My prescription glasses have safety lenses, but the sparks right royally f'd them up. Sparks on the face are unpleasant too, both the hot ones and the resulting grit.

[johnunit]

When you get it on the road or give up, I'd take it to a shop and get them to do a full inspection. Rarely do I see cars come in with damage like that where other things aren't an issue. Ball joints, tie rods, end links, a lot of that stuff can be as bad or worse when it lets go.

Even if you don't get the work done at that shop, most would be happy to show you the issues with the car in the air while you get them to do an oil change, tire rotation, or other token job along with the inspection.

[miamibob]

When you get it on the road or give up, I'd take it to a shop and get them to do a full inspection. Rarely do I see cars come in with damage like that where other things aren't an issue. Ball joints, tie rods, end links, a lot of that stuff can be as bad or worse when it lets go.

Even if you don't get the work done at that shop, most would be happy to show you the issues with the car in the air while you get them to do an oil change, tire rotation, or other token job along with the inspection.

My point exactly! This is NOT a "one part replacement job"!

[rezwrrd]

Grinding wasn't too bad, except that it doesn't seem to have helped. Still won't budge. I could probably cut deeper or make another notch if I could get that puller out of there. I shouldn't have tightened it so much, but I thought the arm was going to pop off if I just tightened it enough. Hindsight is 20/20, I guess.

I was considering cutting an arm of the puller to get it off, but I'm sure with the stress the pieces would fly out in a few directions. Even with goggles I'm not sure I want to attempt that.

I've been spraying WD-40 in the slot and hammering on it from different angles every half hour or so since about ten. (I'm sure the neighbors love me.) I'm getting more and more discouraged, but I'm convinced that if I can get the arm to slip off the rest will be a breeze.

Bobby - I know there's a lot more work to be done. This has been kind of a wake-up call... front suspension shouting "pay attention to me!" I'm looking at those tie rods next.

Thanks everyone for your help so far! I'm going to have another go at getting that puller off.

[miamibob]

PB Blaster?? As you say a "wake up call" for more front end work. We all want you and yours to be safe and those front end parts look bad.

[sly]

take a BFH to the broken wrench and whack it back and forth like you're trying to loosen and then tighten. It will come off. I typically use an impact tool on those pullers if not a breaker bar and the impact socket.

[Chaplian]

Looks like you're need balljoints, tie rods, bushings, and probably shocks. Gonna be a fun project.

[IPreferDIY]

The WD-40 probably won't do diddly squat, at least at the top. Mine had so much crap caked on around the shaft that it looked like nothing got through. If you have a little acetone and tranny fluid around, you might want to try the 50/50 mix. I've never tried it myself, but I've read good things.

Before I did my grinding, the puller had gotten to the point where the end against the shaft was flaring out and I was concerned about breaking it. After grinding, the arm slipped right off using the damaged puller.

I don't see why you'd need to cut the puller. If it's on tight, use a hammer like sly said. Once you get it loose, you can do what gadget said.

[IPreferDIY]

Looks like you're need balljoints, tie rods, bushings, and probably shocks. Gonna be a fun project.

I've been presuming at least some things have been changed already, but if not, then yup. Don't forget the idler arm.

[1990LTD]

I'll say! I'm considering myself extremely lucky that this happened at 1 or 2 MPH and not 65-75, and that it was in the driveway where I don't need to have it towed.

That's generally when steering parts give out, at low speeds ie parking lots.


Have a good front end mechanic go over your car with a fine toothed comb. Get your wallet out because you probably need a lot more than that tie rod end.