Frame rust

[IPreferDIY]

This is actually one of the very few places in life where I'm in favor of government meddling. It forces people to worry about their car. Not for their own sake. Don't take it the wrong way, but I could give a shit about the owner of the car. I don't want them hitting me because their car broke in half or had no brakes. Emissions, fuck it. A tailpipe is far less likely to cause me immediate harm than the bald tires and rotted brake lines are.

That’s an excellent point, though I’m comfortable with the way things are. I’ve only ever heard of at most a very few instances of accidents occurring due to mechanical problems. One that comes to mind is a wheel flying off a truck axle. Unsafe cars just don’t seem to be a particular problem up here. Not that there aren’t any problems. I know the police do safety blitzes and pull a lot of vehicles off the road, though those seem to be targeted at larger vehicles like delivery trucks. (I have no idea if tractor-trailers have their own regulations. I also have no idea if mechanics have any authority to keep a vehicle off the road when they find a problem during regular service.)

One concern with annual inspections up here would be mechanics taking advantage of people, which happens often enough already.

Probably a big factor in my favor is that I assume the worst in everyone while I’m driving. Having a big car seems to help too.

Depends who you ask but to me it doesn't really matter. I live close enough to Canada, which has places that offer up Krown rust proofing so I take my cars there to have it done. If I had to do it myself I'd just use the motor oil left over from oil changes, thin it out a bit with some mineral spirits and then spray that everywhere. Gear oil would probably be best but that's a bit too stinky for me.

Background info on Krown:
https://www.krown.com/process/

One thing I’m not comfortable with about the Krown video is that their method would seem to coat the speakers in the doors. I'm also not a fan of drilling holes if suitable access holes already exist. Otherwise, it seems great in theory. If I had a relatively new car, I’d be inclined to get it done once before doing things myself.

If you were going to put oil on the underside of the car, how much do you use and how often would you apply it? Also what type of oil?

I just buy cans of Rust Check when it goes on sale. They have a thick one for coating stuff and a thin one that will flow into seams and whatnot. Ideally, I’ll use an air hose to spray off dirt and crumbly stuff, and then wet things down with WD-40, especially in the spring to ‘neutralize’ the road salt. Once that’s had a chance to run off, I’ll spray on the Rust Check. I used to get away with once a year on my 2000 MGM, but now I’m doing it twice a year.

The biggest problem is having to do it repeatedly. I think it was turbo2256b who recommended something like chain saw bar oil, which is supposed to stay on for years. I haven’t had a chance to try it myself yet. In any event, I'd at least inspect it twice a year and touch up as necessary.

[DerekTheGreat]

...One thing I’m not comfortable with about the Krown video is that their method would seem to coat the speakers in the doors. I'm also not a fan of drilling holes if suitable access holes already exist. Otherwise, it seems great in theory. If I had a relatively new car, I’d be inclined to get it done once before doing things myself.

I just buy cans of Rust Check when it goes on sale. They have a thick one for coating stuff and a thin one that will flow into seams and whatnot. Ideally, I’ll use an air hose to spray off dirt and crumbly stuff, and then wet things down with WD-40, especially in the spring to ‘neutralize’ the road salt. Once that’s had a chance to run off, I’ll spray on the Rust Check. I used to get away with once a year on my 2000 MGM, but now I’m doing it twice a year.

The biggest problem is having to do it repeatedly. I think it was turbo2256b who recommended something like chain saw bar oil, which is supposed to stay on for years. I haven’t had a chance to try it myself yet. In any event, I'd at least inspect it twice a year and touch up as necessary.

I'm not a fan of drilling or hacking up a car either but look at this way, holes drilled for oil application are better than rust holes
With our cars water already can get on the speakers from the window sweeps. I was planning on putting those foam speaker baskets in anyway for sound improvement and moisture protection. The oil Krown uses is like a vegetable oil of some sort and light. Makes me feel good when I see it dripping all over the place, not to mention seeing it all over the frame & floor pans.

It is something that is recommended once a year. Ashley and I bought four cans of chain lube for each of our trucks once (before we sold mine for the '85 LTD CV) and once we started using can #1 it was clear we weren't going to be able to do much other than the gas tanks, fuel & brake lines and spring perches. Those cans were ~ $40 for four of them plus I'm sure it's not legal to apply that and have it drip on the ground like it ended up doing and you end up crawling all over under the car, making your back and neck very happy. To have our cars Krowned is about $115 per car. They spray it everywhere, clean up the mess and wash your car while you wait or go out to lunch.

There's an actual corrosion study out there between Krown, WD-40, Rust Check and maybe a few others. Thought I had it on this computer but I don't and I forgot where I found it.. But, I think WD-40 came out on top with Krown behind it, Rust Check wasn't so good.

http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r23645768-Rustproofing-Krown-or-Rust-Check

This is an interesting read too:
http://www.rustcheck.com/index.php?o...ews&Itemid=142

[pantera77]

There's a local place around here called RustAway I go to. Very good product, extremely thick, almost grease like, and it last a long time. Runs around $120 a car. http://www.keeprustaway.com/

This year I tried fluid film on my new 92. It seemed to hold up pretty well, and at 1/3rd the cost, is a good value. Sure you have to do it yourself, but you can take the time to get in all the nooks and crannies the chain places miss.


No matter what you use, you have to have it done every year to be truly effective.

[DerekTheGreat]

Agreed on the annual thing. If I had a lift and a garage I'd do this on my own for sure but alas I have neither so my options would be a tarp and to lie on my back and crawl around for three vehicles. Nope. I think that fluid film stuff is supposed to be really good too. Where'd you get that spray set up for it? I like.

[miamibob]

Glad I don't have to mess with this stuff!

[Georges86]

After a thorough review of this thread, this is why my Crown Vic, and Saab are stored 6 months a year lol

[DerekTheGreat]

Glad I don't have to mess with this stuff!

Ashley and I wouldn't miss a chance to move down to Florida or out west if we could!

After a thorough review of this thread, this is why my Crown Vic, and Saab are stored 6 months a year lol

LoL, same with my Fireturd & Fury III.

[sly]

+1 Texas... meh.

[gadget73]

I wish this sort of thing even existed around here. It would be useful. Not nearly as critical as up there, but when you keep shit as long as I do it would be nice to have had it applied before things self-ventilate.

[GM_Guy]

Screw annual inspections. Just another money grab. As it is, any cop or mto officer can pull anybody over at anytime and do a vehicle inspection, or make it so the vehicle has to go in for an inspection at a ministry location (vs going to joe your mechanic who will pass it becuase you brought a case of beer with you).

Alex.

[porschpow]

My '92 is rusted out in the same spots that Zach's was. Not as bad, but it's there. Still debating whether or not to have it fixed. The one on the bottom of the frame rail is easy, the one inside the frame is another story for me.

Bit off topic...but is there a way to re-route the HVAC drain so it doesn't subject the frame to a slow painful death?

That is what I was wondering too!

[gadget73]

yes, and its not all that hard. Basically it involves finding a piece of tube that fits reasonably snug into the cutout at the bottom of the evaporator case and running it down the firewall. Seal up the evaporator end around the hose with silicone so the water is forced to run down the tube and you're good.