front end nonsense.

[pipes1]

1.Later this week I'll be bringing in my front rotors to be re-machined, my shop teacher said its a good idea to re-pack and replace my wheel bearing seals while im at it. my question is do i have to take my wheel bearing hub assembly off to get to the rotors? is it just real easy to get at now that I've got the rotors off already? just wondering why he would suggest that.

2. i have a bit of play in my steering wheel, my alignment is on point, my tie rods, ball joints, etc. are good, didn't really check my pit man arm, could it be this?

3.i have a loud whooshing noise which increases in speed as i go faster, and once i hit about 50 km/h it just turns into constant white noise, almost like a window is cracked or a door isn't shut all the way,is this my wheel bearings?

[miamibob]

Year, make and model of car????

[gadget73]

answers definitely depend on the year. Boxes have what is called an integral hub rotor. The bearings sit inside the rotor, and you have to remove them in order to take the rotors off. The bearings should be re-packed and the grease seal replaced if you're pulling the rotor off.

Round cars have a sealed hub bearing assembly and a "hat" type rotor that just slips on. No service is possible or required on the sealed hub units.



worn pitman arm would make for slop in the steering. So would a worn rag joint or slop in the steering box itself.


noise could be many things. Might be an exhaust leak, vacuum leak, a tear in the door seal. Bearings tend to hum and vibrate more than hiss though.

[pipes1]

****! 2001 mgm

[jaywish]

So as gadget said, these wheel bearings can not be greased. The older ones, up to 91?, can and should be greased when brakes are being done.

Nothing really wrong with a gentle cut on rotors, provided it is within specs, but some folks, myself included shy away from that and buy new ones when they are needed.

If the rotors do not pulse the brakes and they have no deep groves then they do not require cutting. That is according to the ford service manual. Though this is the prescribed process, normally no cut, there is a difference of opinion out there in the world.

Jay

[gadget73]

hat rotor, easy peasy.

Just make sure its above discard after you cut it. If not, it will warp quite badly.

I'd also tend to agree on not cutting it unless it needs it. Maybe a very light cleanup but thats about it. I typically don't do anything to mine when changing brakes unless there are deep grooves or some other damage that needs fixing.

[pipes1]

my rotors on the front are pretty warped and pull BADLY to the right when breaking. this is why i'm re-machining them, with the slight discount i get from my school with the parts store down the street it rounds out to be 15$ ish per rotor- and they've got at least half life left on em.

[jaywish]

Do not be surprised if the pull does not go away. It could be a bad caliper. Or perhaps even steering, suspension or tire issues.

Not saying don't try, but just don't be surprised.

Did you put a gauge on the calipers to see how much life they have in them? Minimum thickness is stamped into every rotor.

[gadget73]

make sure you clean and re-grease the caliper slides while you're in there. Thats also a common reason for it pulling and causing the rotors to warp. Bad calipers will do this too.

[pipes1]

god em re-machined and smooth braking now, rotors are a BIT less than half, and yes i greased up the slide, had about an hour to do something so i wire brushed the hell out of anything i could to try and get rid of the whooshing noise (its still there,but has gotten quieter)