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My experience with these intakes

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    #1

    My experience with these intakes

    Ok, I know it's been a while. But I was told you don't add or use RTV or any sealer on the intake gaskets...AT ALL!!

    The whole coating the gaskets with oil, never heard of that, but it doesn't make sense!!

    Don't over tighten!! I found out I was leaking coolant by cylinder four causing a misfire. As it turned out, I crushed the gasket (the coolant port gasket right by that bolt by cylinder 4 on once side flush with the intake manifold itself!!

    I would tighten in that order in three stages 16-18 inch lbs, then 8-9 ft lbs and then 18 ft lbs. I wouldn't even exceed 16-17 ft lbs for fear that I do not crush the gasket again!
    "To Find yourself, you must first lose yourself"

    -1973 Volkswagen Bus Westy
    -1986 Honda Magna 700cc
    -1989 Lincoln Town car Signature Series
    -2011 Subaru Outback
    Tags: None
    #2
    so your intake was not bad, just the gasket failed ?

    Can't say I've heard of coating gaskets in oil either. Not using sealer really depends on the gasket. I tend to not use it. Good gaskets on good mating surfaces should not need it, though sometimes when you've got shitty seal surfaces it needs some help. I don't usually use it even on a 5.0, and people will swear you need to butter those things up with RTV to have any hope of it working.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

    Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

    Comment

      #3
      PI gaskets are those plastic with silicon rubber o-ring seal things. No RTV. The NPI plastic intake is similar.

      +1 DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. Though, when I changed the intake on my 93 with the PI engine in it, I did 2-stage... snug... then torque to spec and re-check torque to spec. Only had one that didn't click on the recheck and needed another dink of a turn to click. No problems since either.

      Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
      rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

      Originally posted by gadget73
      ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

      Originally posted by dmccaig
      Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

      Comment

        #4
        I did mine for three stages 14 in-lbs, 8 ft-lbs and 17-18 ft lbs.

        I tried not to go near 18ft-lbs for fear over tightening and also, not sure of the tolerance of my torque wrench.

        Before I did the tightening, I put a very, very, very small coating of RTV on the mounting surface 1/32 of an inch if that, just to cover up any imperfections in the head
        "To Find yourself, you must first lose yourself"

        -1973 Volkswagen Bus Westy
        -1986 Honda Magna 700cc
        -1989 Lincoln Town car Signature Series
        -2011 Subaru Outback

        Comment

          #5
          I did mine for three stages 14 in-lbs, 8 ft-lbs and 17-18 ft lbs.

          I tried not to go near 18ft-lbs for fear over tightening and also, not sure of the tolerance of my torque wrench.

          Before I did the tightening, I put a very, very, very small coating of RTV on the mounting surface 1/32 of an inch if that, just to cover up any imperfections in the head
          "To Find yourself, you must first lose yourself"

          -1973 Volkswagen Bus Westy
          -1986 Honda Magna 700cc
          -1989 Lincoln Town car Signature Series
          -2011 Subaru Outback

          Comment

            #6
            I did mine for three stages 14 in-lbs, 8 ft-lbs and 17-18 ft lbs.

            I tried not to go near 18ft-lbs for fear over tightening and also, not sure of the tolerance of my torque wrench.

            Before I did the tightening, I put a very, very, very small coating of RTV on the mounting surface 1/32 of an inch if that, just to cover up any imperfections in the head
            "To Find yourself, you must first lose yourself"

            -1973 Volkswagen Bus Westy
            -1986 Honda Magna 700cc
            -1989 Lincoln Town car Signature Series
            -2011 Subaru Outback

            Comment

              #7
              I did mine for three stages 14 in-lbs, 8 ft-lbs and 17-18 ft lbs.

              I tried not to go near 18ft-lbs for fear over tightening and also, not sure of the tolerance of my torque wrench.

              Before I did the tightening, I put a very, very, very small coating of RTV on the mounting surface 1/32 of an inch if that, just to cover up any imperfections in the head
              "To Find yourself, you must first lose yourself"

              -1973 Volkswagen Bus Westy
              -1986 Honda Magna 700cc
              -1989 Lincoln Town car Signature Series
              -2011 Subaru Outback

              Comment

                #8
                Holy quadruple post! LOL

                The reason you were told to coat the gaskets in oil is to make them adjust to surface better without twisting themselves and stuff. Which they shouldn't try to twist anyways, but whatever. They are not gaskets in the traditional sense of the word, they are more like funky-shaped rubber o-rings.

                Since your head had pitting from the old coolant leaks, RTV is use acceptable and probably recommended. You'd be doing the same with a full-float axle hub seal of the CR variety that spins within itself, typically you'd just slide that onto the spindle and call it good but if the spindle is pitted you need something to fill the pits.

                There is also the problem that Dorman seemingly can't press steel spacers in right, and a fraction of the spacer's length sticks out on the head side of the intake. This means your intake's plastic never really touches the head, and the o-rings are barely compressed - which is not that big of a deal for the intake runners, but the coolant ports are under significant pressure at high engine speeds (enough to balloon a core anyways) so marginal seal there just ain't cutting it.
                The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
                The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

                Comment

                  #9
                  yeah, I noticed, that on the old one (intake)
                  "To Find yourself, you must first lose yourself"

                  -1973 Volkswagen Bus Westy
                  -1986 Honda Magna 700cc
                  -1989 Lincoln Town car Signature Series
                  -2011 Subaru Outback

                  Comment

                    #10
                    is that something that can be fixed with a file ?
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                    Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

                    Comment

                      #11
                      yeah. I was going to do that to my new intake, but it looked fairly flush with the plastic.

                      But you could use a file, OR maybe a dremmel????
                      "To Find yourself, you must first lose yourself"

                      -1973 Volkswagen Bus Westy
                      -1986 Honda Magna 700cc
                      -1989 Lincoln Town car Signature Series
                      -2011 Subaru Outback

                      Comment

                        #12
                        as long as you don't slip. Files are a little easier to control. One slip isn't going to tear out much plastic.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                        Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

                        Comment

                          #13
                          I'd use the 3" Roloc abrasive discs on an air sander, the ones that look like miniature flap wheels would be my choice for that job. File would take up too long, unless it's a bastard, that one will work nice and quick if the intake is fairly stable and one can lean onto the file properly.
                          The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
                          The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

                          Comment

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