WTB: 302 bolts/hardware/pieces

[PushnFords]

I had an engine being built at a machine shop that closed. I got the block back with the crank/rods/pistons installed, intake, timing cover, and a few misc pieces....but no bolts. If anyone has a blown up engine laying around I'd be interested in the hardware. Could also use pushrods, lifters, and the retainers, etc.

[1987cp]

What bolts do you still need, then? The weird-and-annoying stud things for the water pump seem to me to be the only ones that are really hard to replace (unless you like doing annoying things with stacks of washers and running water pump bolts through the accessory brackets like I did for a while recently).

[BerniniCaCO3]

If you've got a new engine: buy brand new head bolts (always!), and new pushrods are like $25 for all of 'em, lifters are $120 for brand new, made in USA lifters... retainer, yeah, you'd need that off a scrap engine.
Water pump bolts can be bought new too, like $20 for the set iirc.

[1987cp]

$20 for proper water-pump studdy-bolt things? That's not that bad, especially with how those enjoy galling and breaking. I once made a junkyard run specifically for water-pump bolts. Where did you find them?

I've always reused everything that's reusable, or gotten Grade 5 or 8 hardware-store replacements, but those neat header bolts from ARP (?) with 3/8" heads are super-nifty if you're running any sort of aftermarket exhaust manifold. I did buy new head bolts for my '96 engine, as that came with torque-to-yield head bolts when new, but my original '87 head bolts are still in use and doing fine.

[gadget73]

If you're inclined to spend a little extra coin, you can replace/upgrade most of that stuff with ARP hardware for not a bunch of money. The head bolts should probably be replaced, and its not optional to replace them if they're the torque to yield style. The TTY bolts have flanged heads, non-TTY do not have flanged heads.


You can cheat on the header bolts and use socket key cap screws (aka allen head bolts) in the proper size and length. I think its 3/8" coarse thread and 1" long.

[86VickyLX]

$20 for proper water-pump studdy-bolt things? That's not that bad, especially with how those enjoy galling and breaking. I once made a junkyard run specifically for water-pump bolts. Where did you find them?

I'd like to know this too. Because I was under the impression you can't get them... I too did a junkyard run specifically for the water pump bolts.

[1987cp]

You can cheat on the header bolts and use socket key cap screws (aka allen head bolts) in the proper size and length. I think its 3/8" coarse thread and 1" long.

Yes, 3/8" NC sounds right. 5/16" NC is intake and front cover bolts.

What size hex does a 3/8" socket screw use? Seems it'd be challenging to get sufficient torque with an Allen driver of any sort .... but on the other hand, clamping load can't logically be the only consideration.

[hypostang]

Part number 23744 dorman / motormite help line

the water pump stud /bolt kit

[88grandmarq]

found it ....

http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-25888-23744.aspx?pymmeid=6025217

[BerniniCaCO3]

yup! you guys beat me to it.
There used to be a company that made stainless versions, but no more.
That might have only been on mustangs though, and even though they have the same block, some of the accessories that use the water pump studs might be different anyway? dunno

The head bolts ARE torque to yield. Just buy new ones
Again, you can probably buy everything you need brand new for <$200: far far better than wasting your time and gas visiting junkyards for used junk, when most of these parts are cheap enough and advisable to be replaced with new.

One thing when I torqued my headbolts down that I'm curious about: I used a torque stick to either 80 or 90 pound-feet (whatever ford had specified, anyway), and then did that extra 1/4 turn.
Some of them made that extra 1/4 turn with what almost felt like a continuous 80 pound-feet, just turned further without getting harder, while others I felt the torque increase further.
How come?

[gadget73]

Yes, 3/8" NC sounds right. 5/16" NC is intake and front cover bolts.

What size hex does a 3/8" socket screw use? Seems it'd be challenging to get sufficient torque with an Allen driver of any sort .... but on the other hand, clamping load can't logically be the only consideration.

1/4" I think, or maybe 5/16 but certainly no larger. Socket cap screws are all grade 8, so the bolt strength isn't really a problem. If you have an allen key socket set that fits onto a ratchet, you can get plenty of torque. Really the exhaust bolts shouldn't need to be so tight that an allen key is a problem. If its gotta be that tight to seal, something is warped.

[1987cp]

The head bolts ARE torque to yield. Just buy new ones

Just mentioning, this has to be evaluated on a case-by-case basis. If you read my post, you'll notice I came into possession of some '96 head bolts that were TTY, and some '87 head bolts that were not. The '96 motor got new ARP head bolts, the '87 motor didn't.

Can't comment on your quarter-turn question, as I don't recall a torquing sequence that involved giving the head bolts an extra quarter-turn ....

1/4" I think, or maybe 5/16 but certainly no larger. Socket cap screws are all grade 8, so the bolt strength isn't really a problem. If you have an allen key socket set that fits onto a ratchet, you can get plenty of torque. Really the exhaust bolts shouldn't need to be so tight that an allen key is a problem. If its gotta be that tight to seal, something is warped.

All grade 8? Interesting, I did not know that. Logical observation about warpage, though for most people there's probably not much they can do if something is warped.