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WTB: spacers for panther frame bolt bushings

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    WTB: spacers for panther frame bolt bushings

    Lincolnmania had these made up about a year ago.
    I declined at the time, thinking I'd *never* get around to doing the job, and it wasn't wholly necessary.

    Well, planning to do shocks because of some real bounciness, I was lifting the car by the body and the frame only followed suit 1-1/2" later. Bad sign?


    Anyone here buy a set from lincolnmania that perhaps you don't need, or won't get around to installing, and you'd be willing to resell to me?

    The car is already on jack stands and I'm starting to tear out brake line for a brakes overhaul. I want to do this next week, in tandem with the brake work, so please give me a call at four one zero, eight zero two, nine zero one four! (or a text) (or a PM)


    thanks!!!
    -Bernard

    #2
    I just did the body mounts on my 85' and I didn't see the need for those spacers. Bushings went on no problem at all.

    Comment


      #3
      awesome! Did you end up using them at all?
      I have a 1990- I know the engine/body was 86-91, but the frame was the same in 1985 still?

      3 questions:

      If I understand correctly, I'll be ordering 8 of the 'es 9.4102' bushings, costing $195? There are 16 body mounts and each kit comes with 2 bushings?

      These look like the right bolts for a good price-- correct length threaded, good grade/quality, etc.?


      Finally, I'll be reading up... but without pneumatics or impacts or acetylene torches, how scary a job is this? The movement when I lift by the pinch weld does indicate a body mount concern?
      One reason I want to do it now, however, is that the opportunity may simply not come up again.

      Comment


        #4
        On a full frame vehicle, you should be lifting by the frame and not the pinch welds on the body.


        '93 T-bird
        '03 Silverado ECSB

        Missed:
        '88 Mark VII
        '86 CV

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by purplebomb302 View Post
          On a full frame vehicle, you should be lifting by the frame and not the pinch welds on the body.
          then how you gonna get the body off the frame? the 4 jack stands go under the frame


          i friggin love how people gotta be critical of something that i have done 10 times or so

          bernard: if you are not sure about the process then bring it up here so you can get assistance.............the quickest we have ever done this job here was 10 hrs (me and mrltd when i was healthier) the longest about 20 hrs (several of the bolts broke)

          1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
          2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
          1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
          1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
          2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
          1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

          please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Mr Bean View Post
            I just did the body mounts on my 85' and I didn't see the need for those spacers. Bushings went on no problem at all.
            so what did you use then to take up the space between the bushings and the frame of the car?

            1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
            2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
            1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
            1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
            2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
            1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

            please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Lincolnmania View Post
              then how you gonna get the body off the frame? the 4 jack stands go under the frame


              i friggin love how people gotta be critical of something that i have done 10 times or so

              bernard: if you are not sure about the process then bring it up here so you can get assistance.............the quickest we have ever done this job here was 10 hrs (me and mrltd when i was healthier) the longest about 20 hrs (several of the bolts broke)
              Well, planning to do shocks because of some real bounciness, I was lifting the car by the body and the frame only followed suit 1-1/2" later. Bad sign?
              Originally he was just jacking up the car to replace the shocks, and instead of using the frame he used the body. Just thought I'd clarify, i don't have anything else to contribute here. lol
              -Phil

              sigpic

              +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

              +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Mr Bean View Post
                I just did the body mounts on my 85' and I didn't see the need for those spacers. Bushings went on no problem at all.
                this was on the newer frame though. I think the box/aero frames need the spacer.

                Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

                Originally posted by gadget73
                ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

                Originally posted by dmccaig
                Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                Comment


                  #9
                  "this was on the newer frame though. I think the box/aero frames need the spacer."

                  My box is from 1990-- the 1985 didn't?

                  Mr Bean, did you end up using your spacers? If not, I will buy them from you-- if you did, I need to tell lincolnmania asap to order a set, which is gonna take 2 weeks. That would mean that I couldn't do the spacers while I do the brake lines (the car can't sit for that long), but I guess there isn't that much overlap between brake/fuel lines and the body mount jobs?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    he didn't buy spacer and has a whale frame on his 85.

                    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

                    Originally posted by gadget73
                    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

                    Originally posted by dmccaig
                    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I suggest using an impact. Heat wont help out much because all of the captive nuts are hidden really well. If you spin them loose you will have to go cut open panels to get your bolts out and use nuts to secure them.

                      My car was pretty rusty on the underside and iirc only two or three captive nuts spun loose. Your results may vary.

                      I know on my car the spacers were indeed needed so the bushing would fit snugly in the holes.

                      That is the correct part number as well.



                      Search around my thread and see pics of things...Spacers, and bushings.. May be back from there a few pages....
                      ~David~

                      My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                      My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                      Originally posted by ootdega
                      My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                      Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                      But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                      Originally posted by gadget73
                      my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Lincolnmania View Post
                        so what did you use then to take up the space between the bushings and the frame of the car?
                        Nothing. I don't see that small amount of play as an issue. The frame gets sandwitched between upper and lower bushings. There is a bolt going through both of them which screws into the body. The bolt prevents bushings from sliding around.

                        Also, I suggest using 1998+ OEM body mount bolts. They are longer than OEM box bolts and work out nicely with ENS bushings.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I'm a bit confused by what the spacers do-- does the nut bottom out on the bolt before it can clamp so you still have vertical space (requiring a washer)?
                          Or is the bolt diameter smaller than the hole in the frame, so the frame can still shift sideways? So the spacer is more of a tube, adding girth there.

                          I think from context it must be the latter (understand I haven't done this job before, and I haven't dug into it yet either so I haven't seen what we're talking about). Without the spacer, can the body shift side to side 1/8"? I think I do want to take up that space.


                          sadly lincolnmania I now live in iowa city! I used to live in Baltimore so that was more feasible.

                          I just sent you a PM. I have 2 weeks the city has granted me to leave my nuisance on jackstands (even on my own driveway, which is not city owned! oh well),
                          Is there any chance grainger, mcmaster-carr, or fastenal, etc., would have something in stock that could be kludged to make work? I don't want you to order another whole set just for me, and, I'm worried about the 2 week lead time to get a set.
                          In hindsight I should have planned for this job; it's more spur-of-the-moment since I finally both have time and nice weather.
                          Last edited by BerniniCaCO3; 06-12-2014, 09:33 AM.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            This is a slightly relevant question, but is there a way to do the bushings one mount at a time without jacking up the car? Where you would unbolt one mount and have the rest of the mounts support the weight of the body while replacing that mount. You would use a jack to slightly raise the body to give clearance for the new bushing + spacer. Does anyone think that could work?

                            1989 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series | 249k miles, current project car
                            2018 BMW 430i xDrive M-Sport | 50k miles
                            2018 Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport | 97k miles

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by L1011tristar17 View Post
                              This is a slightly relevant question, but is there a way to do the bushings one mount at a time without jacking up the car? Where you would unbolt one mount and have the rest of the mounts support the weight of the body while replacing that mount. You would use a jack to slightly raise the body to give clearance for the new bushing + spacer. Does anyone think that could work?
                              You can't. Body has to be lifted off the frame to remove and install the bushings.

                              Comment

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