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Think this belongs here. Removing engine 86 vic

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    #31
    Okay got the engine mount bolts out. Now the exhaust nuts are rusted horribly (ontop of me having no room to work) I was only able to reach one bolt from the bottom but I have no room to do freaking anything! Everything is rusted together and seized up tight. It wants to round off before anything else. I am stumped.
    Also there's so much crap on top I can't gain access to the four top ones.

    God I regret taking on this project...

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      #32
      You got this far, you can make it to the end. Take all the shit on top off then, will make some space, especially without the air cleaner box & smog shit in the way. I wouldn't do this type of project by myself though, I'd either farm it out or have to lean on people willing to help me, no fuckin' way man haha.
      1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
      1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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        #33
        All I can say is this shit is making me appreciate my vw. All of the ducting smog top end shit is gone. It's the fact there's wires and vacuum tubing and the windshield wiper motor. Even with a long ass extension and a swivel on an air impact (shit won't budge my compressor isn't powerful enough) so hand tools are the only resort. I am at my wits end.

        And I am getting pressure from folks to get this done yesterday. And I have no physical help. And this is my first time doing this...

        All I can say is fuck!

        Another question how much of this bullshit do I really need? How much of this crap is simply stuck on to appease the EPA? I live in MN a liberal state with the most lienent car laws. No testing, no inspections and hotrodding is big. So anything goes.

        I'm getting angry at this damn car!
        Last edited by DrHax; 05-17-2017, 01:28 PM.

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          #34
          Everything newly challenging makes you long for what was familiar and comfortable... Better products or not, I am an American and stand behind what our country produced. Now though, due to the lustful power of the billfold it's all the same... Anyway, most of the vacuum crap is for the HVAC and then EGR/Smog stuff. You'll have to decode what's on the sticker on the fan shroud to see what's what. You can delete the smog stuff if you cap it all off, same with the EGR. Will set codes but no biggie. I have kept everything in place because I'm a sticker for originality.

          You could always just sell it and find something else...
          1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
          1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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            #35
            I ended up having a fuck it moment and removed the wiper accessembly.. now I have easy access to the top bolts.

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              #36
              Got five out of the six bolts by sitting on top of the engine like smeagle. Filthy bellhousing bolts giving Hax trouble!!

              Last one is being a bloody mofo. It's tricky for me to reach because my deepwell socket is a 6 point and I've had to use a breaker bar as a wrench because the handle is long enough.

              Got all of the exhaust manifold bolts loosen except for the front fucker holding the bracket. That sob was like "Nah I'm going round off because Fuck you!!" Since I don't really care about the dead motor finding some way to cut off that stud wouldn't disturb me at all.

              Gods damnit this has been an adventure. I'll feel so much better when I get to drive this car again.

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                #37
                I've gotten to the top two bellhousing bolts from below and above. From below, having skinny arms helped and from above having the upper and lower intake off got me to the top two much easier. the other four I always get from the under the car.
                Disconnecting fuel lines was also a challenge, and I think the idea mentioned about the orings seizing over time is the issue I had. I also used the plastic tool described by others.
                Exhaust studs connecting the manifolds to the cats weren't happening for me, but I had bought new cats the year before so I just cut those bastards off. If money is tight this may not be an option for you though, so it's a good thing it sounds like you've made some progress there.

                Speaking of exhaust manifold to cat flange studs, DO NOT order Dorman 03129 which is listed as being correct; they are NOT correct for stock panther manifolds.
                I used Dorman 03099, but if I had to do it again I would go with Dorman 03135 (Thread Size #1 7/16-14, Thread Size #2 7/16-14).

                Once you've done all this work once you'll be able to do it in half the time next time. (What next time you ask? Well, when you get another panther of course! LOL)
                Good luck.
                Last edited by VicCrownVic; 05-17-2017, 07:55 PM.
                Vic

                ~ 1989 MGM LS Colony Park - Large Marge
                ~ 1998 MGM LS - new DD
                ~ 1991 MGM LS "The Scab"
                ~ 1991 MGM GS "The Ice Car"

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                  #38
                  This project is making me purchase tools. Some I need others I don't and a few I just wanted. Got a twist ratchet. Something I hilariously was wishing somebody made earlier today. Tight squeeze in there..

                  The exhaust bolts have me somewhat concerned.. but I'll figure out something.

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                    #39
                    I love my stanley rotator ratchet. get that tight space bolt. That's the ONLY thing I use that one for. It falls off anything with room.

                    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

                    Originally posted by gadget73
                    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

                    Originally posted by dmccaig
                    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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                      #40
                      Dr. Hax don't lose your temper or you will do something you will regret trust me on this I speak from experience, I used to be a mechanic and when things got to be frustrateing I would take a short break and the answer would come to me, so just try it on for size.

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                        #41
                        Originally posted by Rodentkiller View Post
                        Dr. Hax don't lose your temper or you will do something you will regret trust me on this I speak from experience, I used to be a mechanic and when things got to be frustrateing I would take a short break and the answer would come to me, so just try it on for size.
                        This. I began to learn this early on. My biggest memory as a kid was playing Road Rash for Sega Genesis and I got pissed, promptly threw the controller at the ground so hard it shattered into 3 pieces, stomped over to the system, yanked the cartridge and threw it at the wall. I didn't break the cartridge but once I calmed down I realized I still wanted to play the game but couldn't since I broke the only controller we had. Bummer and lesson learning process started.
                        1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
                        1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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                          #42
                          Got the engine disconnected any advice on how to remove it out of here? Or anything to keep an eye out for. This is my first v8 removal. I'm used to dealing with vw bugs.

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                            #43
                            Take the radiator out if you haven't already done so. Then take every fuckin thing off the front of the engine - cooling fan, alternator, smog pump, A/C compressor, power steering pump, belt pulley off the harmonic balancer, water pump (in that order too, more or less). You now have about half an acre of empty space to yank the engine into without destroying stuff you wanna reuse. Also remove the upper intake manifold, then you can run chains from exhaust manifold to the other across the engine - one chain at the front and one in the back, big pin-shackle in the middle to connect them to the engine crane hook (or you can use just the hook alone if it's big enough). Pull the long bolts that go thru the engine mounts, start lifting with the crane, bit go a little first. Put a wooden block under transmission bellhousing, but a bottle jack under said wooden block, use jack to push on block which in turn pushes transmission up. Try to match lifting with the crane and pushing with the bottle jack, the goal is to have the engine suspended by the crane and the front of the trans supported by the jack in equal amounts. When the transmission hits the top of the body tunnel it lives in, you can pry the engine away from the bellhousing and the height you gained while going up is enough for the upper half of the motor mounts (that is bolted to the engine block) to clear the bottom half (that remains bolted to the frame). Keep in mind that when the engine lets go of the transmission things will want to move, keep your fingers away from heavy and/or sharp objects. Once transmission and engine are separated, you can pull the crane away from the front bumper, this will pull the engine into the space you freed up by removing the radiator and the belt-drive accessories. You can now lift the engine all the way up and over the header panel, and eventually out of the engine bay.

                            Reinstall is reverse, except you should have the water pump installed before engine goes in as doing so on the engine stand is much easier than once the engine is on place.
                            The ones who accomplish true greatness, are the foolish who keep pressing onward.
                            The ones who accomplish nothing, are the wise who know when to quit.

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                              #44
                              I generally do not pull the water pump or the crank pulley. Otherwise if it can come off the front, it gets taken off. It will get into your available space but with the radiator out you still get a pretty good amount of room.
                              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                              Originally posted by phayzer5
                              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                                #45
                                ~David~

                                My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                                My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                                Originally posted by ootdega
                                My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                                Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                                But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                                Originally posted by gadget73
                                my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




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