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Thinking of buying an 89 Country Squire

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    #46
    Did the 351 have the nylon timing gear? I thought it was only the 302s, but I'm not sure.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

    Originally posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

    Originally posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

    Comment


      #47
      Originally posted by DerekTheGreat View Post
      Not trying to insult you but you don't really understand corrosion then. If the body panels have already started to go then the floor pans aren't far behind, nor are the seams & the frame. Probably a plethora of dry rotted hoses & rubber components like grommets that go along with that. The age old saying is "What you can't see is 3x worse than what you can see." Cars that are slightly crusty at the edges seem to explode with rust within three years. My neighbors minivan is testament to that. I moved in this house 5 years ago and in the past three or four her car has exploaded with the cancer. I'm sure she's had to redo brake lines, if not fuel lines too. I pity mechanics who have to work on rusty shit too. Guys on this site have posted clean[er] cars in your area, so they do exist and even so, your best bet is taking a road trip down to Florida or somewhere out west to get one for the same price but with less rust than what you're considering. In the corrosion biz most pretreatment/paint systems for exterior finishes are rated to five years, some out to ten. Once the rust is visible the coatings have "expired" so to speak. Testing these systems is what I've been doing for the past 8 years or so. Even when you take unscribed test coupons and subject them to salt spray they will eventually begin to blister & rust- this why the shit that's starting to rust just explodes with it. Nobody else in the industry speaks of it like that but it's what I've witnessed. The better the entire system is, the more resistant it is to the explosion that follows but nothing made from ferrous metal will repel corrosion forever.. Frames & undersides have less protection than the surface panels as they were deemed less important... Our stuff sees salt too, we just oil the piss out of the undersides, doors and rockers. So far so good. Just sharing personal experience & grief to hopefully save you from same frustration.

      Like pantera said, if it's just hanging there walk away.
      I think you're being a little extreme here. All in all I don't see a panther being worth a trip to Florida and to be honest I've seen cars that have almost no body panels left but still have am immaculate frame. I've worked on my fair share of rusty vehicles and it's not horrendously bad. I mean 3/8 vehicles I've had have been rust free and all the others weren't that bad. My 87 SS Monte even had a large hole in the rear frame rail (G Bodies are known for it) and the car was completely perfect everywhere else, other than lacking paint. Panthers are panthers and I'd rather pay $250 for a crusty one, than $1800 for an clean one. But that comes from a mechanic and nothing really scares me if the price is right.
      __________________________________________________


      1985.03 Crown Vic. Coupe "CVGT" Build thread - china whirlybird, burnout machine.
      The only 6 speed box on a late model frame.

      Originally posted by SVT98t
      It has air ride. I've disabled it since I've been jacking it up and down.

      That is how you're supposed to jack it.

      Up and down.

      -ryan s.

      Comment


        #48
        I don't think so, but that's my experience. Also, I don't have access or the money for all the tools needed for handling rusty stuff. Hate that stuff. I'd pay $1,800 for a clean car any day over a shitty rusty one with patch panels and whatever else. Time saved by not having to mess with that stuff is money in the bank to me.
        1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
        1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

        Comment


          #49
          That gold wagon looks nice!

          The white on the tailgate...is it just extremely faded woodgrain?

          Can also swap to sefi...Been done a few times and on a nice clean car like that it would be worth it if you have the ambition/time before it becomes your dd.
          ~David~

          My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
          My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

          Originally posted by ootdega
          My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

          Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
          But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

          Originally posted by gadget73
          my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




          Comment


            #50
            So, how involved is it actually to install a 3rd row in a wagon that never came with them? 84 CS

            Comment


              #51
              Originally posted by Master Shake View Post
              So, how involved is it actually to install a 3rd row in a wagon that never came with them? 84 CS
              If you have a donor, should be a bolt in situation.

              None of mine have the third row either. Keep hoping to find a set in the junkyard.
              1990 Country Squire - under restoration
              1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - daily beater

              GMN Box Panther History
              Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
              Box Panther Production Numbers

              Comment


                #52
                There's an '87 country squire in a local junkyard that the 3rd row was never opened until I did it. Most of the car is shithoused but the interior is in good shape.

                Comment


                  #53
                  To hop in and give my opinion. (Hey it's like an asshole we all have one!) Rust is always a risk regardless of where you are, But honestly if a vehicle is rusted in a confined space you can use it to your advantage. Also don't buy a car in minnesota. There's always a higher price to pay here. I paid 600 for my vic, granted the underside is only dusty and dirty with nothing more then normal surface rust. No rust on the bolts.. even the parts caked with dirt weren't rusty. For a mn car thats amazing. (only rust was in the trunk around the mounts that connect to the frame. Dirt got in through those two holes caked in there and rusted it out.. Perfectly isolated.)

                  Take anything rust free with a grain of salt. I would rather see a car with a few rusty spots then a pig somebody put lipstick on and is parading as rust free. I don't know that might just be because I come from the ACVW world of bugs, buses and ghias, but honestly you see a lot of crafty repairs and clueless people. There's a saying in mn.

                  "It's rust free! The rust is free with the car!"

                  Your mileage may vary and condition of the car varies too. I've arizona cars with rust, I've also seen 2010 cars that are rotted worse then my VW's. I personally wouldn't pay a premium for an out of state car but that's just my cheap ass. But then again I'm a welder (By training) so a little isolated rot doesn't scare. Hell my fiancee's 67 Saab with a ford v4 and missing floorpan didn't scare me.:blue dizzy:

                  When in doubt bring a fucking magnet and be an asshole.

                  Comment


                    #54
                    Originally posted by Master Shake View Post
                    Found another potential wagon. A 1984 CS with a carb'd 351, claiming clean body and mint interior. What are the pros and cons here, guys?
                    The engine and trans are both boat anchors. I'd take a 86-91 SEFI 5.0 over that any day of the week.

                    However if it's clean and rust free for a decent price you'd be silly to pass it up.
                    2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
                    2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
                    2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
                    1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

                    Comment


                      #55
                      Oh god, what have I done?

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                      What do you guys think? I'm pretty happy with it. It runs and drive better than the other one, looks better, WAY better underneath and it's got pretty sweet paint on it.

                      Comment


                        #56
                        Looks good, I like it! Looks clean underneath, inside and outside. I think you have a good solid car.

                        Comment


                          #57
                          It really is solid. The only place I was able to find any meaningful rust is on the front of the door jams. At right about the dashboard level there are small holes on both sides.

                          Also the bottom of the doors are starting to bubble a bit. But aren't awful at all. But I have to figure something out quick before it gets out of hand.

                          Comment


                            #58
                            Originally posted by Master Shake View Post
                            It really is solid. The only place I was able to find any meaningful rust is on the front of the door jams. At right about the dashboard level there are small holes on both sides.
                            Happens on nearly every box.




                            Well, it's sure as hell not a 351. It's a 302 with CFI, arguably even worse.

                            Still, you would have been stupid not to buy it judging from how clean it is underneath.
                            2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
                            2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
                            2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
                            1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

                            Comment


                              #59
                              Wagons are addictive. Bought an 88 last night.
                              03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
                              02 SL500 Silver Arrow
                              08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>06 Mustang Bullet Rims 235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
                              12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

                              Comment


                                #60
                                Originally posted by pantera77 View Post
                                Well, it's sure as hell not a 351. It's a 302 with CFI, arguably even worse.
                                What can be done about that?

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