VicCrownVic's 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS

[VicCrownVic]

I think I was wrong about the '95 (single connector replacement for '91) wiper motor. Now that I have a service manual I looked the wiper section over.
When I messed with this I didn't notice a difference between the '98 and '95 so initially thought the were identical. Swapped the mounting plate and put the '95 motor in. The wipers wouldn't line up right (parked high and wiped the a-pillar) and for some reason I assumed the output shaft was not in the same position on the '95 motor since the wipers were slightly off. I'm pretty sure that assumption (dumb conclusion now that I think about it) was wrong, but I didn't have time to mess with it more that day. I believe the actual problem was the output shaft on the new motor was simply clocked slightly different.

So looking through my new-to-me service manual I see that there is a wiper arm park position adjustment that can be performed on the wiper arms. If the '98 motor decides to stop parking correctly again (all the way up) I'll swap the '95 motor in and make this adjustment. I'll give it a try on the passenger side arm since it parks a little higher than the driver side arm as is.

Yesterday I took apart the original '91 motor from The Ice Car to see the inner workings. Here's a picture of the gear.

[VicCrownVic]

Intake and associated hardware ordered. Since I'm not driving much due to COVID-19 lockdown, and lucky enough to be still working from home, the money that I would normally spend on gas will easily pay for the purchase of this intake and parts.
I ordered the updated PI coolant tube and nipple along coolant hoses, fuel injector O-rings, and other odds and ends from RockAuto. The intake I ended up ordering appears to be a PI intake that comes with the 1W7Z-9424-AAA kit with gaskets and alternator bracket. I'll have to look it over when it gets here and determine if I have everything I need or if there is anything I forgot. Since the original intake has no problems YET, I'll have time to procure whatever I forgot.

Knowing now what you guys have said, looking over Ryan's writeup (http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...-Manifold-Swap), and watching the video ChrisFix did (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=beSV_jZxR5o) has me confident that I can do this PI intake swap no problem... when this lockdown is over (I'll disinfect things as they arrive).

[VicCrownVic]

Got an update on the manifold, shipping has been scheduled and, according to the FedEx tracking, it should be here by Saturday.
All the stuff I ordered from RockAuto already arrived. I'll take inventory and order whatever else I need which shouldn't be much. I still need to investigate if I need to replace to coolant tube nipple or if I already have the right one, which apparently some '98s do. My build date is 01/98 so I'm hoping I have the later nipple and won't need to order a water pump gasket.

I found some info that suggests I would need the later thermostat housing. It looks like in Ryan's writeup his pre-2001 housing was used no problem on his PI intake. So I assume my stock housing will be fine (as long as it is in good shape, which it should be at 65k miles).

Washed the car yesterday and noticed more scratches that I didn't notice last time. They aren't new and not heavy scratches, I just didn't notice them before.

[87gtVIC]

If the scratches bother you there is an easy way to make them less noticeable.

Pick up some 1000 and 3000 grit sand paper (preferably the unigrit type that has a soft backing). You can find this easily inside of a headlight restoration kit that meguiars sells. Good to have anyways...

Wet down your scratch and with little pressure sand with the scratch with the 3000 grit. The idea is knock down the high ridges of the scratch lessening the irregular gouges the light if reflecting upon. You then follow it up with some compound to brighten the paint back up after your wet sanding. You may not remove the scratch entirely but you will make it less noticeable.

[VicCrownVic]

Intake arrived today.

The kit I ordered, 1W7Z-9424-AAA from https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/ came with:
Service Info sheet (1W7E-9E473-CC)
Intake Manifold (1W7E-9424-AB on a sticker on the intake, 1W7Z-9424-AB per the Service Info sheet)
Intake Manifold Gaskets (YL3Z-9439-BA)
Alternator Brace/Bracket (1W7Z-10153-CB)
Water Outlet Connection (Thermostat Housing) Bolts (W708309-S437)
O-Ring For Thermostat (F1VY-8255-A)

Part number on the bottom of the coolant crossover: 5W7E-8C368-AB

Picture:


Service Info Sheet
http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/attachme...chmentid=53902

Comparing the 2001 listing on the info sheet to the 1998-2000 listing there are a couple of extra items listed for 1998-2000.
One difference is the Water Outlet Connector (Thermostat Housing) which the new thermostat housing requires the upper rad hose included in that kit.
Since I'm fairly certain my stock thermostat housing will work, I think I'm set there.
The other difference is that kit includes an engine cover and the stud and nut to go with it. I'll worry about that when I get there since it is not a critical part. If my stock engine cover can't be modified to work I'll source one that will fit the new intake, but not going to worry about it ahead of time.
It's also interesting that the intake part number is different in that kit: F8AZ-9424-CB, which I assume is a NPI intake which is why I didn't order that kit.

No idea when I'm going to get to this job. The stock intake is still fine, and I've been taking The Ice Car to the store the last couple times I ventured out, because why not take my apocalypse car, LOL.


Side note on fordpartsgiant.com, I had no problem with them. There was a delay in processing due to COVID-19 (ordered at the same time I ordered the RockAuto items), but I was wondering if I was going to get any of this stuff this month, even from RockAuto, considering the current circumstances.

[VicCrownVic]

Checked the coolant tube connection and it is the later style connection, so the water pump will not need to be removed. I'll swap the O-rings from the new nipple though.

I had a chance to adjust the p-side wiper arm today. Very easy. It now parks where it should instead of a couple inches high. D-side was already good so I left it alone.

[VicCrownVic]

I now have all the parts I need for the intake swap. Now I'm just needing a place to work since I'd rather not work on this in my driveway.
I also received more parts from RockAuto the other day. Shocks for all 4 corners and new springs for the rear. I'm definitely not doing this job in my driveway so might as well do it all the next time I get to one of my preferred working on car places (parents place or a friends place).
KYB 344081 front police shocks, and in the rear Gabriel HiJackers 49205 with MOOG CC817 cargo coils. The springs probably don't need to be replaced but I don't like how the stock springs sit, and I thought a whale might look strange with CC819 coil springs like The Ice Car has so I decided to try the CC817. Other than the springs it's the same setup as The Ice Car.

Also been cleaning the car when I have the time. My latest cleaning session, this past weekend, was seats (again). The rear look good enough that I didn't touch them again, but the front, especially the driver seat, needed another cleaning session. I'm using Lexol cleaner and conditioner. The first session was a slight learning session and got some of the easy nastyness cleanned off. Second, most recent, session was mostely the driver seat and working dirt out and conditioner in with a toothbrush. I found a picture from the day after I bought the car to compare to a picture I took today. I wasn't sure how much progress I have made but I can see it in the pictures. I figure I'll get these seats looking better little by little with each session.
Before:


After:

[VicCrownVic]

Oh, I almost forgot, I also did a little polishing of my wheels last weekend.
I found a (dirty) picture from the day after I bought it and took a picture today for comparison.
I also rotated the Before picture for easier comparison to the After picture. I wish I would have washed the wheel in the Before pic for a more accurate comparison, but I didn't know at the time that it would be a comparison picture.
This is the worst looking wheel of the 4. I was able to work out some of the scuffs. Notably the scuff line just inside the wheel lip that goes from about 11:45 to 4:30.
I used some 3000 grit sand paper like Dave had suggested on the paint scratches. I didn't want to get to crazy on the clear coat so some of the deeper curb scuffs are still there. I figured I would rather try my hand at scuff removal on the wheels first, and think I have worked up the courage to try it out on the paint on some of those light scratches.

Before:


After:

[87GrandMarq]

Looks good bro!

How bad are the scuffs in the paint? I too was afraid of ruining the paint on my 02 gt when doing some paint correction for the first time but it seems to be pretty idiot proof lol. A little rubbing compound on the deeper stuff followed by polish works wonders. Even having to wet sand is easy. Just keep the area soaked and use even pressure. When it dries it’ll look bad but thats because it needs to be followed by compound and polish. I wish I had some pics of when I wet sanded my 02 gt but I didn’t take any befores.


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[tjc78]

I always liked those teardrop wheels. Look good! If you have some stubborn stuff on the leather you can use a Magic Eraser... BUT just go really lightly with it to make sure you don't damage anything.

My new Volvo has white seats and my son really scuffed the back seat and the Magic Eraser took it right off.

[VicCrownVic]

Looks good bro!

How bad are the scuffs in the paint? I too was afraid of ruining the paint on my 02 gt when doing some paint correction for the first time but it seems to be pretty idiot proof lol. A little rubbing compound on the deeper stuff followed by polish works wonders. Even having to wet sand is easy. Just keep the area soaked and use even pressure. When it dries it’ll look bad but thats because it needs to be followed by compound and polish. I wish I had some pics of when I wet sanded my 02 gt but I didn’t take any befores.


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Thanks.

There's a couple of spots that would require paint, but most of the scratches are very light and could easily be taken care of the way Dave described. Especially the scratches on the trunk lid that I didn't even notice until the 2nd or 3rd time I cleaned the car. Overall the paint is in really good shape for 22 years old. Hard to tell the difference between the 22 year old paint and the 2 year old paint on the driver side fender (and hood?).

I always liked those teardrop wheels. Look good! If you have some stubborn stuff on the leather you can use a Magic Eraser... BUT just go really lightly with it to make sure you don't damage anything.

My new Volvo has white seats and my son really scuffed the back seat and the Magic Eraser took it right off.

Thanks, these are definitely easier to clean and maintain than turbines and, as you said, they doo look good. I almost picked up a set from the JY a couple years ago. They were on a clearly garage kept car and looked every bit as good as this set. I decided against it since I needed wheels for snow tires and ended up getting a full set of '98-'02 steelies for the snow tires.

I had a little practice with the sanding over the past couple of weeks. I started out with a dull scratched up pocket knife then moved to a not very good shape turbine wheel I had in my shed. The knife turned out great, the turbine not so much. Will definitely need some media blasting to make the turbine wheel decent, which I don't plan on doing any time soon. The point was to make a learning experience out of it, and I did learn bit while experimenting with 180, 800, 2000, and 3000 grit as well as a dremel and wire wheel.

[87gtVIC]

Wheel did clean up good.

Drive on over Ill go over the car for you and we can knock it out. I have everything needed.

[VicCrownVic]

LOL, that would be awesome. Also quite the drive from the Detroit area. A doable drive, but not in the cards any time soon.

My 303 Fabric Guard arrived yesterday. It for marine fabrics, but I figured it would work well on the canvas top.
Read through the application instructions. Fully cures within 12-24 hours depending on conditions such as application pattern and temperature.
Application temperature is recommended at above 70F in direct sunlight for quickest curing. I'll have to keep an eye on the weather forecast to pick a day where the following day will also be dry, and I don't plan to drive the car, so that it has plenty of time to cure.

I did a very small test patch (maybe a couple square inches) below the rear window above the trunk lid. So far no weird discoloration, color running, or anything other ill effects. I'll probably get to this next weekend if the weather will cooperate.

[VicCrownVic]

Whale trunk lighting (at least '98) sucks very much.

I had a spare damaged trunk light harness sitting around. It's the original from The Ice Car which got pinched which resulted in the wires being cut. I figured that one out then the trunk randomly opened in a parking lot leaving from Meijer one day.

Anyway, I installed this in the trunk lid last week after noticing how badly the stock lighting sucks anywhere other than the area directly below the stock light. I finally got around to connecting the wire today. I still need to drill a hole and install the screw so the housing grounds consistently.

The box light is very much superior.


Before:


After (now you can see all that junk in the trunk):


(Looks like I lowered the image quality more than I thought, oh well, it saves drive space and still get the point across.)

[mercurygm88]

Whale trunk lighting (at least '98) sucks very much.

I had a spare damaged trunk light harness sitting around. It's the original from The Ice Car which got pinched which resulted in the wires being cut. I figured that one out then the trunk randomly opened in a parking lot leaving from Meijer one day.

Anyway, I installed this in the trunk lid last week after noticing how badly the stock lighting sucks anywhere other than the area directly below the stock light. I finally got around to connecting the wire today. I still need to drill a hole and install the screw so the housing grounds consistently.

The box light is very much superior.


Before:


After (now you can see all that junk in the trunk):


(Looks like I lowered the image quality more than I thought, oh well, it saves drive space and still get the point across.)

Interesting. Maybe it is a '98 thing? My LSE has two bright lights one in the trunk lid and one at the bumper side of the trunk, lights the whole thing up. Both my '01 and '03 Town Cars had good trunk lighting as well.