Quick shift tube question - how to get rear bracket off?

[Stealthlead]

Hey guys... my new shift tube finally came in yesterday (it was cheaper to buy an entirely new tube w/bushings than the bushings alone lol). My shifters gotten worse and I've been having to leave it in N and E-brake which is not good. The two bolts connecting to the shift tube brackets were very lose which I'm pretty sure is the source of the problem. My bushing's aren't too bad, though. Anyways, this is where I'm at -


As you can see I'm on the lower bracket now and I just can't get an angle to get anything in there to get that torx bolt on the right.. I was able to get the left with a crescent wrench and the right head but I just can't get this one. How do you guys do it? Its literally ready to be pulled out.. I disconnected the trans bracket, dropped the steering column etc.

On the flip side during the installation is there anything I need to be weary of like the way the shift tubes line up or anything? And also where specifically do I check on the trans to make sure the linkage isn't lose there either? I want to take care of this today once and for all, lol.

[Stealthlead]

After taking a look at the shift tube, I decided there was really no way it was going to come out completely unless there is something I'm absolutely missing (besides, the new one is made in china and my stock one isn't cracked). A bracket behind the bracket would hold it into place as well so I just did the best I could; I replaced the front shift tube bushing, lubed up both the front and rear as best I could and tried it out. For the first time I can shift into 1st and can finally go back into drive! So those two bolts on the rear of the tube were definitely the culprit. I'm moving on to fixing the speedo now but I'd still like to know how you guys removed yours if you did.

[VicCrownVic]

IIRC, That steering column should drop down a lot further, if not the other thing that I might have done was use a small 1/4" socket to turn a torx bit if I didn't have room for a torx driver.

[VicCrownVic]

Found my pic from when I did this, I was able to get the steering column to drop a lot further, if the seat is the problem make sure to put the front of your seat down as far as it will go and put the seat back as far as it will go. You have the 4 nuts removed from the mounting studs, I can see that, but I'm not sure what else would be holding you up other than the seat not allowing the steering wheel to drop or there is a brass? colored support that runs under the steering column from one side to the other but I think you already have that removed.

[VicCrownVic]

Also, your shift tube looks like it is designed better than the one in my car. It looks like they added a section just above that bracket, toward the seat, to prevent that plastic bushing you see in my pic from slipping up and blocking the lock mechanism. Next time that bushing gets messed up I'll have to look into getting this revised version of the shift tube.

[sly]

+1 that column should drop a LOT further. there are 4 nuts holding it up. remove them all AND the cross bar at the bottom of the panel below the column and it should dang near drop to the floor.

[Stealthlead]

All those lugs were removed but that brass column is what was keeping it from dropping I think, I'm pretty sure I know what you're talking about. The shift tube and bushings looked to be in great condition to be honest. I just threw the new bushing in the front, lubed it up as well as the rear. The culprit was 100% those two screws in the back that connect that bracket to the trans shifter, a lot easier job than I made it out to be but its not like I'm out $100, the shift tube with bushings was $20. Besides, anytime I can keep a US made part over a Chinese one, I'll do it. Its shifting like never before now, I cant believe how ecstatic I am just to be able to park! In the event my tube/rear bushing goes bad I know exactly what to do now, thanks guys

[sly]