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    #1

    Interior Lights will not cut off

    Another problem here that I can't find anywhere in the manual.

    My Interior lights will not cut off at all, for as long as the battery is connected.

    When I first got the car, the Interior lights would cut off normally when the doors were closed, or the door jamb switch was pressed.

    At the time the car had a bare ignition switch, which I was using a screwdriver to switch back and forth between the positions. One of the times when I was attempting to start the engine, the Ignition Switch shot out a fat blue spark which shocked me, and afterwards the Interior Lights would not go off at all, or since.

    Anyone have any ideas as to what could have happened?
    Tags: None
    #2
    Hmmm... the interior autolamp feature is tied into the ignition switch I think , iirc after you enter the car the interior lights stay on for 30 seconds or so OR untill you turn the key...
    Does this box have this feature??? there is bound to be some sort of module for this... maybe its just fried and is something you can find and unplug for now.
    Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
    'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
    sigpic
    85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

    Comment

      #3
      Yes, this Box does have Autolamp, as well as Illuminated Entry and Delayed Exit. I didn't see any sort of module for it while I was under the dash though.

      Comment

        #4
        did you replace the ignition switch?

        1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
        2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
        1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
        1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
        2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
        1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

        please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

        Comment

          #5
          I'm with Scott.
          2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
          1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
          1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

          Comment

            #6
            Yep, replaced the ignition switch awhile back with the one from the parts car, which had a key. Still no change afterwards.

            Comment

              #7
              stupid question but your headlamp switch isn't rotated all the way clockwise is it?
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment

                #8
                Lol, I did think of that, and no it isn't, I made sure.

                I'm beginning to think that it may be the Autolamp switch itself, I'm gonna try unplugging it and see if that changes anything. I can't think of anything else that would hold the lights on like this.

                I think this car hates me...

                Comment

                  #9
                  Woohoo! Figured it out and Fixed it today. The Autolamp switch was indeed the problem, got lucky and found an NOS unit from Team Ford at the local stealership.

                  Replaced the switch earlier today, and all the Autolamp features work now, and most importantly the interior lights cut off 30 seconds after I close the door, or right after I turn the key.

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Originally posted by LTDMan83 View Post
                    Yep, replaced the ignition switch awhile back with the one from the parts car, which had a key. Still no change afterwards.
                    the key lock is not the ignition switch man

                    1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                    2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                    1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                    1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                    2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                    1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                    please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Originally posted by LTDMan83 View Post
                      Woohoo! Figured it out and Fixed it today. The Autolamp switch was indeed the problem, got lucky and found an NOS unit from Team Ford at the local stealership.

                      Replaced the switch earlier today, and all the Autolamp features work now, and most importantly the interior lights cut off 30 seconds after I close the door, or right after I turn the key.

                      Glad to hear you sorted that out, have you noticed any difference in cranking the engine now? The switch might've been doing more than just keeping the interior lights on.

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Originally posted by lincolnmania View Post
                        the key lock is not the ignition switch man
                        Yea, I know that scottmang. What I meant was that the replacement Ignition Switch now has a Key/Lock Cylinder/Actuating Rod, now operating it. Instead of a Screwdriver like before. I was at work at the time I typed that, and just got in a hurry and worded it wrong. It's all in my RR thread, with pics.



                        Originally posted by 86VickyLX View Post
                        Glad to hear you sorted that out, have you noticed any difference in cranking the engine now? The switch might've been doing more than just keeping the interior lights on.

                        Thanks. Sadly no difference with cranking the engine after changing the switch, but the Interior lights always staying on were REALLY aggravating me, so I'm glad I figured that out at least.

                        Comment

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